Category: reproductive problems

When bitches give birth we say that they are ‘whelping’ and there are three recognised stages:

• Stage I: this usually lasts from 12 to 24 hours, during which time bitches may show changes in behaviour. They become reclusive, restless and start ‘nesting’ (trying to make a bed for the puppies). Bitches may refuse to eat and sometimes vomit. Panting and trembling may occur. In this phase the uterus (womb) is contracting and the cervix is dilating. Although you might see a clear and watery discharge from the vulva (around the back end of the bitch) no visible abdominal contractions are evident.
• Stage II: begins when you can see the bitch starting to strain. These contractions will eventually result in the delivery of a puppy. Typically, there should not be more than 1-2 hours between puppies although great variation exists. The delivery of an entire litter of puppies can take between 1 and 24 hours. Increased puppy survival is associated with shorter total delivery time (less than 12 hours) and an interval of less than 2 hours between puppies. Discharge from the vulva during this time may be clear or bloody and this would be normal. Typically bitches continue to nest between deliveries and may nurse and groom puppies intermittently. As the next puppy starts to arrive panting and trembling are common.
• Stage III: this is the delivery of the placenta. Bitches often deliver puppies and placenta alternatively until the delivery is complete but sometimes 2 puppies will be born and then 2 placentae. Try to keep a check that the same numbers of placentas and puppies have been delivered at the end.

Dystocia is the inability to expel a puppy through the birth canal. It is not uncommon in the bitch and can have several causes. The bitch may be in trouble if she is straining for a long time and no puppy is born – or if she strains for a while and then stops straining without producing a puppy or placenta.

If you think that your bitch is having trouble delivering a puppy you should contact your vet for advice immediately. The early diagnosis and treatment of dystocia can prevent the loss of puppies and perhaps even the mother.

The diagnosis of dystocia can be based on the presence of any of the following criteria:

Prolonged gestation

If the pregnancy lasts longer than 70-72 days from the first mating, 58-60 days of dioestrus (metoestrus) or 66 days from the day of the LH surge or initial rise in progesterone during oestrus (known if ovulation timing was performed) then this is abnormal. Prolonged pregnancy results in oversized puppies that will not fit through the birth canal. Partial separation of the placenta can result in death of these puppies in the uterus.

Failure of normal labour

​Labour should begin within 24 hours of a decline in body temperature below 37°C / 99°F and progress through the three stages to completion within 12-24 hours.

Failure of delivery of all puppies in a timely fashion

Delivery should occur within 1 hour of active parturition (visible abdominal efforts) or 4-6 hours of intermittent parturition. Call your vet for advice if there is:

• 30 minutes of strong contractions with no puppy born.
• 2-3 hours of weak contractions without a puppy being born.
• 4 or more hours between puppies.
• Obvious problem (pup hanging out etc.)

Foetal distress

If stillborn puppies are delivered then concerns must be raised for the remainder of the litter as yet unborn. If the unborn puppies have slow heart rates (your vet will be able to detect heart rates) this can also indicate distress.

Maternal distress

The puppies are also at risk if their mother becomes ill before delivery. If they are nearly at full term they may stand a better chance of surviving if they can be delivered and cared for outside the womb. If a bitch develops green or copious vulval discharge and/or bleeding during pregnancy then veterinary advice must be sought immediately.

Dystocia is due to either a problem with the mother or with puppy size or position.

Abnormalities of the uterus (womb)

These include poor contraction of the muscles of the uterus, abnormalities associated with foetal or maternal fluids or twisting or rupture of the uterus. Sometimes the uterine muscles never start to contract properly and a Caesarean operation must be performed to deliver the puppies.

In other cases labour may develop normally but is prolonged and the muscles of the uterus become exhausted before all puppies have been born. Intravenous solutions containing glucose and drugs may help to stimulate contractions of the uterus, but a Caesarean operation may still be necessary.

Disorders of the birth canal

Previous damage to the pelvis such as healed fractures can make the birth canal narrow. Some bitches have abnormalities of the birth canal or unusually small vulvar openings (these may require a partial episiotomy (surgical incision) to deliver puppies vaginally).

Puppy abnormalities

Includes puppies that are too large, or in a abnormal position, presentation or posture. Puppy oversize can occur with prolonged pregnancy in abnormally small litters and is a common cause of dystocia.

The normal position of a puppy before delivery is with the foetal backbone lying along the top of the womb. A mild dystocia may arise if they are lying the other way up. In most breeds puppies can be born normally in either anterior (head first) or posterior (back feet first) presentation. It is only a transverse (sideways) presentation that is associated with dystocia and this is rare. Deformed puppies may also become stuck in the birth canal.

If the puppy is not in the correct position it is not easy to correct this with the use of forceps or traction because of the small size of the birth canal of the bitch. If a puppy is stuck in the birth canal then a Caesarean operation is needed in most cases.

Breeds of dog where Caesarean delivery of puppies is usually required

If it is known in advance that problems are likely during delivery your vet will probably want to book the date of the Caesarean as a routine procedure. You should always discuss the options for your pet with your vet well in advance of labour to ensure you have the right plans in place.

Your vet will want to have an accurate history about ovulation timing and breeding dates, as well as any events surrounding labor and performing a careful physical examination. This will include examination of the birth canal for any abnormalities or the presence of a puppy stuck in the birth canal.

A hand held ultrasound may allow detection of foetal heart beats and abdominal ultrasound and x-rays can be very helpful in assessing puppy viability, litter size and puppy position. Blood tests to measure calcium and glucose levels are also helpful in identifying metabolic disorders contributing to dystocia. A uterine monitor can be used to evaluate the quality of uterine contractions.

With this information your vet will be able to advise you on whether a Caesarean operation is likely to be in the best interests of the mother and the puppies.

Uterine inertia simply means that the womb is not contracting adequately. Primary uterine inertia means that the uterus never starts contracting. In this case a bitch will show the first signs of labour but never progress beyond this. This condition is not common but can be due to the pregnancy consisting of only a single puppy. Your vet may need to give an injection to try to stimulate uterine contraction or, if this fails to work, then a Caesarean delivery may be needed.

Secondary uterine inertia occurs after the bitch has been in labour for some time. One or more puppies may have been born but then contractions stop before all puppies have been delivered. This condition is more common in older bitches and can be due to exhausted muscles in the uterus or to glucose or calcium deficiencies. Veterinary attention should be sought immediately as this condition may respond to intravenous treatments but often means that a Caesarean delivery is needed.

With help from your veterinary surgeon, your bitch should be able to produce a healthy litter of puppies. Early diagnosis of problems will help prevent any life-threatening emergency, to puppy or dam by suitable and timely treatment.

Pyo = pus, infection; metra = womb or uterus. Pyometra is a serious infection of the womb resulting in the accumulation of infective fluid (pus) within the cavity of this organ. It is usually seen in older, female dogs who have not been neutered.

Pyometra may be classified as open or closed. In open pyometra, a common sign is a discharge from the vagina. This discharge may be bloody or yellow or cream coloured. In closed pyometra, no discharge to the exterior occurs.

If the pus does not drain out though the vagina, your dog may become very sick and develop toxaemia (blood poisoning). The presence of this poison in the body has serious effects on other body organs and systems and can lead to life-threatening conditions such as kidney failure. Untreated, pyometra can cause death from dehydration, toxaemia and kidney failure.

A less common problem, stump pyometra, occurs in females who have been spayed (neutered), but in which a small remnant of womb remains within the body and becomes infected. Because only a small amount of womb is present, signs tend to be less severe, but this condition also needs treated to prevent complications.

Each time a female has a season (usually about twice a year) she undergoes all the hormonal changes associated with pregnancy – whether she is pregnant or not. The changes in the womb that occur with each cycle make infection more likely with age. Infection is usually caused by a very common organism called E. coli. The disease often occurs in the weeks or months following a heat or season period. Injections with some hormones to stop seasons or for treatment of other conditions can also increase the risk of pyometra developing.

Your vet will probably suspect what is wrong with your pet from your description of the symptoms although they may want to do some other tests to confirm the diagnosis and also to make sure that your pet is well enough to withstand an operation.

Blood tests may be taken to see if the toxins from the infection have entered the blood and could be affecting organs elsewhere. X-ray and ultrasound examinations may be undertaken to confirm that the uterus is enlarged.

Once the diagnosis has been confirmed your pet should have an operation to remove her womb as soon as possible. This is the same operation as carried out to routinely spay a female dog, however in a sick animal suffering from pyometra it carries much more risk. The risk of not operating is even higher; most animals will die if surgery is not performed. If the womb is not removed, toxins are released from the infection which get into her blood and make her more and more ill. Eventually these toxins can cause kidney failure.

Before performing the operation your vet may want to give your pet some fluids (into her vein) and antibiotic treatment. Surgery might be delayed for 12-24 hours to give your vet time to get your pet into a better condition to tolerate the surgery. She may need to stay in hospital after surgery for continued treatment.

Very occasionally dogs have been treated with special hormone injections to empty the womb without having to perform an operation. However, this treatment is only considered in valuable breeding bitches and is often not successful.

In very old animals with pyometra and clear evidence of organ failure, e.g. kidney and liver failure, or where other major problems such as serious heart disease exist, euthanasia may be the kindest option.

Pyometra is a serious disease and unfortunately a proportion of patients will not pull through despite treatment, owing to organ failure and complications. Overall, many dogs do recover remarkably well and it is certainly well worth pursuing treatment.

If your pet recovers from the operation then there is a good chance she will return to her former health. In fact many owners report that after the operation their dog is better than she had been for a long time before. It may be that the infection had been building up for a long time before the animal became really ill.

The only way to be sure your pet won’t develop this condition is to have her neutered. If you are not intending to have puppies from her then she should be neutered at as young an age as possible. Not only does this remove all the complications associated with the reproductive cycle but, if a female is neutered before her first season, she is also protected against mammary (breast) cancer developing in later life. Ask your vet for details about the best time to have your pet neutered.

Although pyometra may be more common in bitches that are not neutered and have never had puppies, it is not exclusively a disease of these animals. Breeding does not guarantee protection and indiscriminate breeding of pet dogs is not to be encouraged.

It is uncommon for puppies to need to be totally hand-reared. It is very rare for bitches to be unable to produce sufficient milk, but sadly if the mother has died, is ill, or has abandoned the litter it may be necessary to step in. If a foster mum can be found then this is ideal as the puppies will be brought up naturally. A foster mum could be a bitch having a false pregnancy or one that has lost her own litter or only has a few puppies. If you have a very large litter the mother may be unable to feed all the puppies and supplementary feeding should be carried out although the puppies can be left with their mother at other times.

A note of caution – if a mother is rejecting a particular puppy from a litter there is a good chance that she knows that it’s unhealthy and this is the reason for rejection. Although you can find nothing wrong with it and hand-rearing this puppy may be successful there is a high chance that you will not succeed.

New puppies should be introduced very carefully to a potential foster mother. The foster mum is more likely to accept them if they smell of her. This can be achieved by letting the puppies cuddle up on a piece of bedding that the foster mum has been sleeping on. Do not wash the bedding first as you want the scent to rub onto the puppies. After a short time the foster mum can be introduced. The introduction must be closely supervised to ensure the foster mum accepts the puppies and doesn’t harm them.

There are a number of milk products available which have been correctly formulated to replicate bitch’s milk. Cow’s milk and human milk substitutes are not recommended as the quantity of protein, fat and carbohydrate differ from that in bitch’s milk.

Recommended milk substitutes:

• Welpi – designed especially for puppies.
• Pedigree Instant Milk Substitute – designed especially for puppies.
• Lactol – suitable for puppies but not species specific so the above formulas are preferred.

These formulas are available from your veterinary practice and you should seek advice on their use. It is essential to make up and use formula milk according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Signs of under nutrition include failing to gain weight, crying and inactivity, however over feeding can be just as dangerous. It is important to increase the volume given as the puppies get bigger.

Puppies should increase in bodyweight by 5-10% per day for the first two weeks of life (after the first day – it is normal for them to lose weight in the first day of life). Failure to grow at this rate may indicate underfeeding or ill health. It is helpful to weigh each puppy every day and to keep a growth chart so you can see that all the puppies are growing well. They should be weighed at the same time of day, e.g. just before a certain feed and you certainly need to take into account whether the puppy’s stomach and bladder are full or empty at the time of weighing. Carefully clipping a little fur from a part of the body and carefully recording this may be helpful.

Milk substitute should be made up fresh for each feed and warmed to 38°C / 100.4°F (body temperature) before feeding.

It is very important that you feed puppies very slowly, keeping their heads up to allow them to swallow. If you give milk too fast it might go down the wrong way (into the air passages) which could lead to pneumonia.

If you are trying to save a weak puppy it is safer to feed it using a stomach tube rather than giving milk via the mouth. This should not be attempted by an untrained person and involves passing a suitably sized tube through the mouth, down the throat and into the stomach. Milk is then placed into a syringe and injected down the tube into the stomach. A veterinary nurse will be pleased to show you how to feed the puppies initially.

For the first week of life feed normal puppies using a syringe with a teat attached. Nursing bottles can be purchased in pet shops and through your vets but these are not recommended until the puppy has a good sucking reflex.

Supplying colostrum

Colostrum is a special kind of milk that contains antibodies to protect the puppy during the first few weeks of life. Puppies that have inadequate colostrum are less likely to survive. Colostrum only works if ingested in the first 12 hours after birth. After this time the puppy’s stomach and intestine change so that they digest the antibodies rather than allowing them to be absorbed intact as is necessary. Also, after the first 12 hours, the mother begins to stop producing colostrums and switches over to producing normal milk.

So, if at all posible, try to obtain colostrum and get this into each puppy in its first 12 hours after birth. If this is impossible it can be substituted, to some extent, by a veterinary surgeon injecting the puppy with serum.

New born puppies need to be fed every 2 hours from birth up to 7 days of age. From 8-21 days this can be decreased to every 3 hours. The amount fed should be increased to compensate for this at each feed. At 4 weeks of age feeding every 4 hours is recommended along with the introduction of solid puppy food. Between 5-6 weeks you can slowly decrease the amount of milk provided and increase the amount of solid food as long as all the puppies are feeding well and gaining weight. By 6 weeks the puppies should be fully weaned, being fed entirely on puppy food.

The following equipment is recommended:

• Syringes –  2ml for puppies.
• Teats – assorted sizes available depending on the size of neonate.
• Cotton wool.
• A room thermometer – those sold for horticulture are suitable.
• Another thermometer to measure the temperature of the milk prior to feeding is also needed.
• Scales – it is vital to weigh the puppies accurately each day. The scales will need to weigh accurately to the nearest 5g and ideally to the nearest gram.
• Sterilising Fluid – e.g. Milton, to keep equipment sterile. Equipment should be sterilised and stored without rinsing, then rinsed thoroughly just prior to use. As well as not being good for the puppy if ingested it may put them off feeding if they can taste it.

New born puppies need to be kept clean and dry. After feeding you should clean their mouths with warm boiled water and cotton wool, drying afterwards. More importantly you need to encourage urination and defaecation. This would normally occur when the dam licks and stimulates their genital areas. You can copy this by rubbing the area with warm, damp cotton wool. This should be carried out every 2-4 hours until 3 weeks of age when they should be able to urinate/defaecate voluntarily.

New born puppies are unable to regulate their own body temperature. They need to be kept in an enclosed controlled environment of approximately 25-30°C / 77-86°F, free from draughts. This can be achieved by thermostatic controls on a radiator, hot water bottles wrapped in towels, heat pads or infra-red lamps.

Heat pads should be designed for animals and be wrapped in towels or paced under vet beds. If used incorrectly they could burn the puppies as they generally reach temperatures of 52°C / 125.6°F. Infra-red lamps should not be placed directly over the neonates and must be at least 5cm away. Place a room thermometer in among the puppies.

Bedding should be soft and warm, eg towels, and needs to be easily washable. Newspaper is suitable to start teaching the puppy house training – again from 3 weeks of age. Soft, warm bedding should still be provided.

Puppies are able to crawl at birth so should be quite mobile although they will be sleeping for a while from the anaesthetic if born by caesarian. Standing occurs from 10 days. By 3 weeks of age puppies should be able to walk around. Puppies are born with their eyes closed. They generally open them between 10 -14 days.

Do puppies need socialising?

Socialisation is very important in all dogs. This period should start from 4 weeks of age in puppies. It is essential that puppies become used to being carefully handled and are acclimatised to everyday noises and situations, e.g. the vacuum cleaner, hairdryer, car and washing machine etc. This enables them to learn that these experiences are nothing to be afraid of.

It is also a good idea for puppies to meet other animals. Ensure that all animals introduced are fully vaccinated and that they will not harm the puppies. Puppies that are hand-reared generally do not have much resistance to disease until they are vaccinated so it is vital that all animals introduced to them are completely fit and well. Puppy socialising classes should be encouraged once fully vaccinated.

Puppies can be vaccinated from around 6 weeks. Early vaccination may be beneficial in hand reared puppies who will not have received appropriate protection from their mother’s milk (inadequate colostrum).

If’ you are at all worried or just require advice then please contact your veterinary practice. New born animals are very fragile and can deteriorate rapidly if their needs are not fully met. After the first day, each puppy should maintain or gain weight each day – contact your veterinary practice if this does not occur.

If one or both testicles cannot be found in the scrotum by the age of 6 months the dog is considered to be a cryptorchid. Your vet should check for the presence of testicles in the scrotum at the examination at time of first vaccination. If they are not present there by 3 months it is very unlikely they will ever be.

Usually one testicle can be felt in the scrotum but the other has not completed its journey from the abdomen. It may have become stuck anywhere along the way and in many cases your vet will be able to feel the testicle somewhere under the skin. Often the missing testicle is still inside the abdomen and therefore cannot be felt at all.

In most cases cryptorchidism is caused by a defective gene. In order to cause this condition the gene is usually present in both the mother and the father. Since the defective gene may be passed on to future generations animals that are cryptorchid should not be allowed to breed. Breeding should also be avoided from the mother and father of affected animals.

After birth testicles descend into the scrotum because this is colder than the normal body temperature of the animal. If a testicle remains inside the body for many years it is more likely to develop cancer. The cancer of retained testicles is serious and causes significant changes such as hairloss and anaemia (due to excessive hormone production) as well as spreading to other parts of the body.

Another possible serious complication is that of ‘testicular torsion’. If the testicle remains in the abdomen it may become tangled in the ligament that attaches it to the body wall. This can cut off the blood supply to the testicle causing severe abdominal pain. As the testicle is not visible it can be quite difficult to work out what the problem is.

Dogs with both testicles retained are usually sterile (unable to father puppies). Those with one normal testicle can still be fertile, although the quality of their sperm is reduced.

Animals with retained testicles are also more likely to have other genetic defects like umbilical hernias and an abnormal penis.

To avoid future complications dogs with retained testicles should be castrated. Removing retained testicles can be a difficult operation as they may be located anywhere in the abdominal cavity. Sometimes the internal testicle can be detected – usually by ultrasound but often it is too small to be seen clearly. In any case your vet will need to open up your dog’s belly to remove the missing testicles. This should be done before the dog reaches middle-age to reduce the risk of the retained testicle becoming cancerous.

Since the animal is not suitable for breeding (due to the high risk of passing on the condition) both testicles should be removed – even if one is in the scrotum. This is important to prevent possible future confusion. If the puppy is rehomed and only one testicle is found in the scrotum further surgery might be carried out to try to locate the (already removed) other testicle.

The reproductive cycle in bitches is very difficult from that in women. Bitches usually undergo oestrus cycling (also known as ‘heat’ or ‘season’) between one and three times every 12 months, although there is a degree of individual variation in this. Oestrus is the time at which mating, and hence pregnancy, may occur. Bitches usually develop a regular cycle and any alteration of this cycle should be taken seriously. Occasionally, various factors such as ill health, can act to delay or suspend oestrus cycling. Unlike women, bitches do not experience a menopause and usually continue to have seasons throughout life.

The first oestrus period (puberty) occurs between 6 and 12 months of age, when the bitch has reached 80% of her adult size. Large breed bitches may be older, e.g. 12-18 months, when their first oestrus period occurs. Sometimes, this initial oestrus is missed by owners as the physical signs may be subtle and not last for long.

The normal oestrus cycle lasts around 3 weeks in the bitch, and can be divided into a number of distinct stages:

• Pro-oestrus usually lasts for around 9 days. In pro-oestrus the vulva becomes swollen with a red (bloody) discharge. Male dogs may show interest in bitches in pro-oestrus, but the bitch will not allow mating.
• Oestrus also lasts around 9 days. The bloody discharge typical of pro-oestrus is reduced. This is the time when bitches will allow mating.
• Dioestrus lasts around 45 days. After oestrus the same hormonal changes occur in the bitch whether or not she is pregnant. During dioestrus levels of progesterone rise. Dioestrus ends spontaneously in the non-pregnant state, and with whelping in the pregnant state. It is this part of the cycle that can result in a ‘false-pregnancy’.

Anoestrus is the 3-4 month period between oestrus cycles. In this period the uterus shrinks down and repairs. The reproductive system is outwardly inactive during this time.

There are 4 ways to prevent pregnancy in the bitch:

• Avoidance of male dogs whilst in heat.
• Neutering (spaying).
• Chemical prevention of the oestrus cycle.
• Chemical intervention after unintended mating.

Avoiding male dogs

This is a possible method of natural birth control. It relies on a firm understanding of the normal oestrus cycle on the part of the owner of an entire bitch. Extreme care must be taken during the receptive oestrus period. Not only are male dogs very resourceful at gaining access to bitches in heat, but the bitches themselves may stray during this period if they get the opportunity. Nevertheless, with responsible dog ownership on the part of owners of both bitches and male dogs, this should be a possible method of birth control. This method of birth control is often used by owners who wish to breed from their bitch at some time in the future.

Neutering (spaying)

This is the most common method of birth control in pet dogs, and is a permanent, surgical method of preventing oestrus cycling and therefore pregnancy. An operation known as ovariohysterectomy is usually performed, i.e. the ovaries and uterus are removed surgically. Ovariectomy (removal of the ovaries only) is a less common method of surgical neutering that is performed in some countries. In either case removal of the ovaries stops reproductive cycling and conception is impossible.

Surgical neutering is a major procedure but most veterinarians perform the procedure frequently, and the risk is relatively low. Most animals being neutered are young and fit. The procedure can safely be performed before puberty, (even in dogs as young as 6 weeks of age). Early neutering has an additional health benefit – it results in a diminished chance of mammary (breast) cancer occurring later in life.

 

Chemical prevention of oestrus cycles

Birth control can be employed using various drugs similar to natural reproductive hormones. The drugs are administered by injection or as tablets at specified intervals, and it is very important that veterinary advice is followed as regards the treatment programme. The drugs used can prevent or shorten oestrus cycles but many have potentially serious side-effects which should be discussed with your vet.

This method is similar to human contraception, but the potential risks mean that it is not generally considered desirable for on-going, long-term birth control in pet dogs. It may be used as a short-term measure, or as a permanent measure only in dogs that for some reason cannot undergo conventional surgical neutering.

Chemical intervention after unintended mating

If your bitch has been mated unintentionally contact your vet as soon as possible. Your vet will be able to discuss the options for terminating pregnancy if it occurs. Immediate treatment can be given (similar to the use of the ‘morning after’ pill in human females). All drugs used in the prevention of pregnancy have potentially serious side-effects and should be used as a last resort rather than a method of birth control.

If your bitch has been mated unintentionally your vet may advise neutering your bitch to prevent this and future pregnancies. If you want to breed from your bitch later, treatment should be delayed until pregnancy has been confirmed.

Bitches should be neutered when their reproductive tract is inactive (during the anoestrus phase). The best time is around two to three months after the end of the previous oestrus. There is more risk of bleeding if the operation is performed during oestrus, and the surgery is technically more difficult at this time. Early spaying of bitches helps prevent mammary (breast) cancer in later life.

This is a serious infection of the womb, seen most commonly in older un-neutered bitches. Bitches with pyometra are often very seriously ill and emergency treatment is usually required. Pyometra is best treated by surgical removal of the womb, but the risks of the operation are higher than those for routine neutering as the bitch is already sick. Medical treatment is usually only tried in valuable breeding animals.

False pregnancy occurs ‘naturally’ at the end of dioestrus. Some dogs have very exaggerated symptoms and may show:

• Poor appetite, lethargy and depression
• Nest building behaviour and ‘adopt’ toys
• Behavioural changes, including aggression
• Mammary development and milk production

Such bitches tend to have recurring false pregnancies at every oestrus and symptoms may last for weeks. Drug treatment can help during the false pregnancy, but the best solution is spaying after the false pregnancy has ended. If your bitch has suffered a false pregnancy discuss the options for treatment with your vet.

The reproductive cycle in the bitch is complicated and during this time your dog will undergo many hormonal changes which can alter her health and temperament. If your bitch is not neutered you should be familiar with all the natural changes in her cycle so that you can be alert to any signs of problems. If you do not plan to breed from your bitch discuss the option of permanent neutering with your vet.