Category: rabbits

Hip luxation

Luxation (dislocation) is defined as ‘dislocation of a joint so that there is no contact between the articular surfaces’. Rabbits have very delicate skeletons, and as their muscle mass is large relative to their skeleton injuries to joints can easily be caused through trauma or abnormal or excessive sudden movements. In addition, congenital abnormalities are also seen in rabbits and therefore hip luxation may be commonly encountered in pet rabbits.

Luxation of the hip is when the ball of the hip joint comes out of the socket, instead of normally sitting nicely in contact with each other. This is often caused by trauma, which may be as little as the rabbit jumping and landing awkwardly, or any forceful trauma to the hip, e.g. being trodden on, running into something, fighting, kicking out when being picked up, etc.

Clinical signs after trauma are often immediate with the rabbit having an obvious limp and looking very uncomfortable on the affected limb.

Congenital conditions causing luxation may appear more slowly as the rabbit develops.

Splay leg is a term often used to describe a number of developmental conditions in young rabbits of up to a few months old. The affected rabbit is unable to adduct the affected limb/s, i.e. hold it in the normal position under the body, and often has an appearance much like Thumper in the film Bambi, where he slides on the ice! The condition can affect forelimbs as well as hindlimbs, but seems more common in the hindlimbs.

Euthanasia is often the kindest option for those rabbits that have more than one limb affected. Those affected to a lesser degree may be able to cope with careful management of their environment, ensuring they are kept clean and are housed on non-slip flooring.

Since the condition is inherited, affected rabbits should never be bred from.

Diagnosis of luxations can be performed by taking an x-ray of the rabbit’s hips and pelvis. Often two views are needed, a lateral view from the side, and a ventrodorsal view achieved by lying the rabbit on their back.

Rabbits are often sedated or anaesthetised for this, since in order to achieve diagnostic images, the rabbit needs to remain totally immobile.

Sometimes it is possible to put the luxated hip back into its socket by manual manipulation, which must be done under sedation or anaesthesia since it can be painful to the rabbit.

It is sometimes necessary to perform corrective surgery, as often the hip can re-luxate within hours, days or even weeks after being placed back into the socket, and therefore permanent stabilisation is required.

Eye abscesses

Abscesses develop when bacteria enter a part of the body. It is the body’s natural defences to try and ‘wall off’ infection to stop it spreading elsewhere within the body. This can lead to problems when the abscess is located within the region of the eye, since the location is hard to successfully operate on, and the case is frequently difficult to cure.

Abscesses are a common occurrence in rabbits, and form when bacteria enter the skin or a body cavity, and sets up an infection. This causes a pocket of infection to form, characterised by an accumulation of pus.

Unlike dog and cat pus (exudate), rabbit exudate is thick and semi-solid, much like toothpaste, making it difficult to flush. This causes a high recurrence rate, since only a small amount of exudate needs to be left inside the abscess cavity for it to return.

Abscesses that are located around the face are often due to dental disease, which can also manifest as ocular problems, since the upper tooth roots can overgrow and impinge upon the eye socket and the nasolacrimal tear duct.

Abscesses that develop behind the eye are known as retrobulbar abscesses. They are very well encapsulated and because of their location they are very difficult to reach and drain.

Dental disease is often a predisposing factor since the roots of the upper cheek teeth can impinge upon the eyeball, and in extreme cases penetrate through it. The food passes from the mouth to the socket of the root developing infection that eventually becomes an abscess.

The most common signs of a retrobulbar abscess are bulging of the eye, protrusion of the third eyelid across the eye and inability to close the eyelids completely. Abnormal ocular or oculonasal discharge can also develop as a consequence of the eye irritation and the rabbit may show signs of discomfort such as excessive blinking and grinding teeth.

In chronic cases, rabbits can continue eating and drinking normally, but often the rabbit will deteriorate as the pain escalates or the dental disease progresses and eventually will stop eating and passing faecal pellets.

There are many investigations that are possible to perform in order to make a diagnosis of retrobulbar abscess; the first is the a physical examination. Often, in moderate to severe cases, it is possible to make a presumptive diagnosis after having examined the affected eye and the mouth for the presence of dental disease.

However, in order to confirm the diagnosis, radiographic and ultrasonographic examinations are generally the tests of choice. Radiography (x-rays) of the skull is generally performed under general anaesthesia. X-rays will not only show abnormalities behind the eye, but will also give the opportunity to confirm or rule out dental disease.

Ultrasonography (scan) of the eye can be performed when the animal is conscious or under light sedation depending on the nature of the animal. However, this test is limited to the evaluation of the eye and the retrobulbar space.

Ideally a computed tomography (CT) or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) scan should be taken to assess the extent of the abscess, the infection and the tooth roots, but often this is not possible due to financial constraints.

It is also posssible to aspirate material from the abscess and test it for bacteria in order to make a diagnosis of infection rather than tumour, and also to choose the best antibiotics as treatment.

Unfortunately, retrobulbar abscesses are very difficult to treat due to the thick exudate that is difficult to drain and due to the location just behind the eye.

Medical treatment is generally unrewarding and surgical removal of the eye (enucleation) is usually necessary. Surgery allows complete removal of the abscess and a thorough flushing of the cavity to ensure that none of the exudate is left within it. The abscess cavity may also need debriding and being packed with antibiotic impregnated beads.

Occasionally this can be curative, but since the origin of the problem is very often related to dental disease, this will also need to be addressed. This can prove long and expensive, and treatment may need to be aimed at palliative care, to keep the rabbit comfortable for as long as possible.

Drainage of a retrobulbar abscess through the mouth can be successful in mild cases, and if caused by a tooth. In this case, the tooth needs to be removed as well as long-term medical treatment with antibiotics started.

Treatment of retrobulbar abscesses is an extremely difficult procedure and, unfortunately the majority of chronic retrobulbar abscesses may recur.

Overgrown teeth

The incisors, premolars, and molars of rabbits grow throughout life. Rabbits do not possess any canine teeth, but do have peg teeth which sit just behind the upper incisors. The normal length is maintained by the wearing action of opposing teeth. Malocclusion (mandibular prognathism, brachygnathism) probably is the most common inherited disease in rabbits and leads to overgrowth of incisors, premolars and molars, with resultant difficulty in eating and drinking. However, malocclusion can develop in later life due to incorrect diet, especially one lacking in the correct calcium to phosphorus ratio or through trauma to the teeth or jaw.

A temporary correction can be made by burring the overgrown incisor teeth down with a dental burr and filing any pre-molar or molar overgrowth down. Cutting teeth with bone, wire cutters or nail clippers is not recommended due to the pressure it exerts upon the teeth. This often leads to them shattering, resulting in tooth root infections and abscesses.

Because malocclusion is generally considered to be inherited, rabbits with this condition should not be bred from. However, young rabbits can damage their incisor teeth by pulling on the cage wire, which results in misalignment and possibly malocclusion as the teeth grow. This type of malocclusion or one caused by trauma to the teeth, may resolve by itself after burring of the teeth, but may take more than one treatment.

One of he most common reasons that rabbits are taken to a vets is for teeth problems. This may be for either incisor and/or cheek teeth overgrowth.

Dental disease in rabbits can cause immense pain to the rabbit since the incisor teeth can grow up or down into the opposing lips. Cheek teeth often cause painful ulcers on the tongue or cheeks, even possibly semi-severing the tongue!

Abscesses are a common problem associated with dental disease since the tooth roots can grow up into the eye or down into the lower jaw. Such infections are difficult if not mostly impossible to treat and euthanasia is often the kindest option for the rabbit.

Runny eyes are another common problem associated with teeth problems since any overgrowth of the upper tooth roots can impinge upon the tear duct, stopping tears from draining from the eye to the nose as they are supposed to do, so they overflow onto the face. This can make the rabbit’s face very sore.

The best way of avoiding teeth problems is to purchase your rabbit from a reputable breeder who knows the history of your rabbits family and has ensured that only those rabbits who have no dental disease in the breeding line have been used. However, this isn’t going to ensure that your rabbit doesn’t develop dental disease, since the most common cause of dental disease is a poor or incorrect diet.

Rabbits teeth grow at 2-3mm per week and this needs to be constantly worn down by chewing on abrasive foods. The best diet for a rabbit is one that mimics what wild rabbits eat.& Unlimited amounts of fresh meadow hay and access to graze on grass provide the rabbit with fibrous and abrasive feeding matter which not only creates a side to side chewing action, which is perfect for wearing the teeth down, but also ensures the rabbit is getting a high fibre diet, ensuring the gastrointestinal system is kept moving.

On top of the hay and grass, offer a small amount of an extruded nugget food, of which there are several varieties available now to prevent the rabbit from selectively feeding. Rabbits who are allowed to selectively feed, and pick out certain pieces of the muesli style rabbit food, over-time become deficient in calcium and phosphorus which allows the teeth to loosen in the sockets slightly and misaligns them, leading to dental disease. If you do feed a muesli type food then ensure the rabbit eats all of it before you offer anymore.

Allow your rabbit to have fresh greens daily and avoid mineral supplement blocks for them to gnaw on. These are unnecessary for rabbits fed a balanced diet and do not promote correct dental wear, and can cause other health problems.

Providing straw/wicker mats, plaits, baskets, etc for your rabbit to chew on is another way of getting them to chew on abrasive materials and keeping them entertained at the same time.

Avoid feeding sugary treats bought from pet shops and excessive quantities of fruits.

It is important to check your rabbits teeth on a regular basis, at least on a weekly basis, to ensure you pick up on any potential dental problems before they start causing your rabbit any discomfort. Whilst checking the incisor (front) teeth is possible, it is impossible to check the rabbits cheek teeth without taking your rabbit to a vet, so knowing what symptoms a rabbit may show with dental disease is important.

Symptoms vary; the rabbit may salivate or have matted fur on the inside of their front legs from where they have been wiping the saliva. Weight loss may occur if the problem is allowed to go on for a while before treatment is sought. The rabbit may go off certain foods and favour others or stop eating completely – this is an emergency and veterinary attention must be sought straight away.

The rabbits eyes may discharge, lumps may be felt under the rabbits chin, the rabbit may sit and grind its teeth loudly in pain and be uninterested in its surroundings. If abscesses have developed then swellings may be seen anywhere around the rabbits face.

All of these symptoms may indicate a dental problem and your rabbit must be seen by a vet as soon as possible.

This really depends on the type of dental disease and severity of it.

Facial abscesses associated with bony structures (osteomyelitis) carry a very poor prognosis since it is virtually impossible to remove the abscess, draining it often has no effect as it will simply refill and it is hard to get antibiotics to the site at a strong enough concentration.

If the rabbit is pain free or its pain can be managed successfully, it is eating and drinking and has a good quality of life, then sometimes rabbits can live perfectly happily with such abscesses for many months/years, but if the rabbits quality of life cannot be maintained then euthanasia is the kindest option.

Overgrowth of the incisor teeth can be maintained by frequent burring of the teeth, which is often possible to do on a conscious rabbit but may need repeating every 2-3 weeks. The incisor teeth can often be removed to solve the problem.

Cheek teeth malocclusion may need regular dentals under anaesthetic, to rasp off the sharp edges, often every 4-6 weeks, but sometime as long as 6-12 months between treatments is seen. The owner will need to be vigilant for symptoms. If the rabbit has a good quality of life between treatments and the owner is able to afford such regular veterinary care then this can carry on for many years. But if the rabbits quality of life is poor between the treatments or the owner cannot afford the financial commitment, then putting the rabbit to sleep is often the only option. It may be possible to remove the offending cheek teeth but such surgery is complicated and most vets will refer the rabbit onto a more experienced rabbit vet if they are not confident at performing the surgery, which may be expensive to the owner. Furthermore, pet insurance will often not cover dental disease, so always check with your insurance company before embarking upon treatment, if paying for it yourself may be a problem.

When it comes to dental disease prevention is much better than cure, as since most forms of dental disease cannot be cured, they are expensive for the owner and often painful for the rabbit, so always ensure your rabbit is fed a good diet and be vigilant for dental problems.

Keeping your bunny amused

Does your rabbit have toys and objects to play with to keep him amused? Or have you never really thought about giving him something to play with?

Its readily accepted that cats and dogs need toys to keep themselves amused, but most people never think of giving their rabbits toys to play with.

Rabbits are intelligent and social animals, and as well as enjoying the company of other rabbits (and people), they need a lot of mental stimulation in order to keep their body and mind active and in peak condition. Toys encourage a rabbit to display and undertake their natural behaviours, such as digging, nibbling, throwing objects, and skipping and jumping, which helps to keep them fit and occupied.

Rabbits can have a wide and varied variety of toys. Toys made of strong, non-toxic plastic, cardboard, willow and wicker are ideal, although make sure that you inspect all the toys regularly for any sharp edges or dangerous holes which they could get a foot or their head stuck in or which may cause them an injury.

Shop bought toys

If you look in any pet shop nowadays they will have a wide selection of toys that have been designed especially for rabbits. These will include rattles, balls, chew blocks, tunnels, etc. However you don’t have to stick to rabbit toys some toys made for cats, dogs and birds are also equally suitable for rabbits, as are baby toys which are always tough and non-toxic.

Feeding balls/cubes which are designed to keep dogs amused are also ideal for rabbits. These allow the rabbit to play, whilst exercising and being rewarded with food. All or some of the rabbits daily food ration can be placed in the feeding ball in the morning to allow them amusement over the course of the day.

Home-made toys

You don’t have to spend a huge amount of money on toys for your rabbit. As well as buying toys, everyday items found around the home that would otherwise be thrown away can make ideal toys for rabbits.

The inner cardboard tubes from kitchen rolls and toilet rolls make good objects for rabbits to nibble on, tear and throw around. However, if the rabbit tries to swallow any of the cardboard then the tubes should be taken away and only given when the rabbit can be supervised.

Old magazines are a firm favourite with many rabbits for tearing and digging at, but again ensure the rabbit isn’t swallowing any of the paper and any staples are removed.

Large cardboard boxes that are filled with hay or shredded paper, with food items hidden inside them will provide a rabbit with hours of fun as they scramble around in the box, nibbling the hay and searching for the food.

Dangerous toys

Any item which can be swallowed, either whole or if the rabbit chews the toy, is dangerous and shouldn’t be given. Likewise items with sharp edges, those which may be poisonous or toxic should never be given. If you are in any doubt as to the safety of at toy then it is always safer not to give it and to give them something else.

In order to keep your rabbit amused, instead of allowing them access to all of their toys all of the time, you can change their toys each week so they have a different selection to play with.

As you can see supplying your rabbit with a selection of toys doesn’t have to be expensive and you will see a difference in your rabbits behaviour as they explore and discover how to play with toys of different textures, shapes and sizes, not only giving them hours of fun but also rewarding you with amusement as you watch them.

Chewing

The fact that rabbits chew is obvious. On walks in the country you can see the evidence of rabbits having chewed the bark of young saplings, or the crop in the field. At home your pet rabbit may have nibbled his hutch, or worse your furniture, books or electric wiring. What is less obvious is why rabbits chew and what you can do about it.

Rabbits chew for a variety of reasons: to eat, to remove roots that are in the way of their tunnelling activities and out of curiosity – perhaps to find out whether a novel item is edible! All rabbits, wild or domestic, need to chew. Rabbit teeth grow continually throughout their lives and as a consequence they need to be worn down. In the wild this is done primarily by the rabbit feeding on grasses which it slices with its incisors and grinds with its molars. Wild rabbits spend some 60% of the time they are awake eating, that is chewing.

Whether you keep your rabbit outside, in a hutch or hutch and run, or inside as a house rabbit it is important that it is provided with a constant supply of suitable objects that it can chew. If not, it is highly likely to end up with mis-aligned teeth and you with many trips to the veterinary surgeon to have its teeth clipped or worse.

Provision of an unlimited source of grass hay (preferably organic) and a daily supply of fresh vegetables is the easiest and most natural way of satisfying your rabbit’s need to chew. Vegetables can include radish tops, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, dandelions, clover, spinach, parsley, pea plant stems and leaves, celery and slices of carrot. Also small twigs and branches of fruit trees that have not been sprayed with insecticides will help keep your rabbit’s teeth healthy and your rabbit appropriately occupied and out of mischief.

Of course all of this can be made more entertaining, for both you and the rabbit with a bit of creative thinking. For example, put the hay and some dried or fresh herbs or a bit of apple or banana (not too much, as the sugars in such fruit can promote tooth decay) into a paper bag. Tie the bag shut with some sisal or raffia and then punch a few holes in it so the aroma of the herbs comes out. Now give it to your rabbit who will have great fun tearing the bag open for the goodies inside and the whole thing can be eaten! A similar idea is to put a nice scented treat into the cardboard tube of a toilet roll and close the ends, or stuff the tube of a kitchen roll with hay.

Rabbits enjoy things to chew and play with and providing them with such mental stimulation will help keep them healthy and happy, and your belongings safer. Toys such as cardboard tubes and boxes, baby teething keys or balls with a bell or rattle inside are sure to be a hit.

As well as providing suitable objects for your rabbit to chew it is important that you ensure that access is denied to the unsuitable objects. This is especially true for the rabbit kept indoors where prized furniture, books, curtains and carpets can become ruined by a rabbit’s attentions. Even the inside of chairs and sofas are not exempt from a bit of chewing and digging! Electric wiring can be even more hazardous as the rabbit may be literally shocked to death or set off a spark that can cause a fire. Electric wires should be chased into the wall or enclosed in plastic tubing. Move other objects out of rabbit reach. Prevent access to wood or walls covered with lead-based paint and do not allow your rabbit to chew linoleum to prevent lead toxicity.This will probably mean that your rabbit only has access to one or two rooms that you have rabbit-proofed. It is a good rule that your rabbit should only have free access to the rooms when it is supervised, the rest of the time keep it safe in an indoor pen (an indoor dog kennel suits well) with a litter tray and plenty of things to chew.

While denying access to unsuitable objects is most important, it is also possible to reinforce the idea that some things are out of bounds with some training. Proprietary chew repellents designed to deter puppies can be effective. Teaching your rabbit ‘no‘ can also be helpful. As the rabbit approaches the object, say its name and ‘No’ firmly and immediately spray it with some water from an indoor plant watering spray. The rabbit will soon associate the word ‘No’ with the unpleasant, but harmless outcome of getting wet.

  • Dr Anne McBride BSc PhD FRSA, Animal Behaviour Clinic, New College, University of Southampton, The Avenue, Southampton SO17 1BJ, UK.

Scanning – the inside picture

Until a few years ago, diagnostic imaging was limited to radiography (x-rays), ultrasound and endoscopy. Although these are still very useful diagnostic tools, there are now far more advanced diagnostic imaging methods, such as Magnetic Resonance Imaging (MRI) and Computed Tomography (CT), that are being more commonly used in rabbit medicine.

MRI is also a non-invasive imaging modality that scans the rabbit using a magnetic field to produce high-quality images of the animal which can be used to evaluate anatomy, function and pathology of many structures.

In rabbits, MRI is usually used to look at soft tissue structures, including organs within the body, and is especially useful when diagnosing brain tumours.

An MRI scanner consists of a box-like machine with a tunnel through the centre that is open at both ends. Your rabbit will be placed onto the motorised table in the centre of the tunnel. This moves inside the machine to create the scan with a small receiving device placed behind/around your rabbit.

An MRI scan relies on a strong magnetic field to move around and react with different atoms within the body to create the image.

The operator is located in a different room, and the veterinary team will also monitor your rabbit from here.

MRI scanners are very noisy which is another reason why your rabbit is very likely to be sedated or placed under general anaesthesia, and can take around half an hour to complete, during which there must be minimal movement to prevent blurring of the scan images.

CT, also known as CAT scanning, is a non-invasive imaging modality that uses x-rays to scan the rabbit to create cross-sectional pictures of the animal which can be used to evaluate anatomy, function and pathology of many structures.

In rabbits, CT is particularly useful for viewing bony changes, such as those associated with advanced dental disease.

A CT scanner is a large box-like machine with a short tunnel or hole running through the centre. Your rabbit will be placed on the examination table which then moves in and out of the tunnel.

The x-ray tube and electronic x-ray detectors are located opposite each other in a ring, called a gantry, and rotate around your rabbit to create the scan image.

The CT scan is controlled from a separate room, where the information is processed and from where the veterinary team can monitor your rabbit.

  • Tumours, especially brain tumours
  • Abscesses within the body/skull
  • Fluid within the tympanic bullae or the ear (inner and middle ear disease)
  • Tumours within bone or the chest/abdomen
  • Central nervous disease, such as epilepsy
  • Assessing the vertebral column
  • Upper respiratory tract disease

CT scanning is normally the technique of choice for assessing the skull and calcified structures, whereas MRI is mostly used for evaluating soft tissue.

During the scanning process of both CT and MRI, your rabbit must stay totally still to get a good diagnostic image. Therefore, to ensure your rabbit is immobile during the procedure, your vet will need to either sedate or anaesthetise your rabbit. General anaesthesia is usually required, even in the most relaxed and well behaved rabbit.

Excessive drinking and urination

Drinking and urinating more than normal is medically called polydipsia (poly = many; dipsia = drinking) and polyuria (poly = many; uria = urine). Thirst and urine production are a delicate balance controlled by interactions between the brain and the kidneys. Increased urination stimulates thirst, as the body’s overall hydration decreases and stimulates thirst mechanisms in the brain. Sometimes the opposite can be true when excess thirst triggers urination, as can be seen with diseases like diabetes when the body tries to dilute toxins by drinking more and the diluted blood then stimulates increased urination.

A rabbit with polyuria and polydipsia will have increased water intake and increased urine output.

The water bowl might become empty more frequently and there might be more instances of urine production; the urine might appear lighter in colour and less concentrated, or the rabbit may be partially incontinent.

On average rabbits will drink 50-150 ml/kg/day, so a large 5 kg rabbit will normally drink up to 750 ml each day, so anything over that could be abnormal. Similarly, normal urine production is about 120-130 ml/kg/day, so a large 5 kg rabbit will urinate as much as 650 ml per day, so anything over that may be abnormal.

The causes of polyuria and polydipsia can vary, but can include:

  • Diabetes or insulinoma (a tumour of the pancreas)
  • Renal (kidney) disease
  • Hepatic (liver) disease
  • Drugs, large quantities of sodium chloride
  • Behavioural problems

Other conditions like dehydration can stimulate thirst, but if the rabbit is dehydrated it will usually have decreased urine production. Similarly, rabbits can have incontinence from things such as bladder stones or bacterial infections, or it might spray in territorial/behavioural display, but this doesn’t necessarily mean the rabbit is producing more urine.

Psychogenic polydipsia may lead to polyuria. The condition may be behavioural or due to a physical problem and can only be deemed a cause of polydipsia and polyuria once other causes have been ruled out.

Rabbits with dental disease may try to fill themselves up on water, if eating is too painful; the rabbit will drink excessively in an attempt to feel full, which in turn will lead to increased urination. These rabbits will lose weight, condition and appear miserable.

Bored, lonely or stressed rabbits may take comfort in drinking, especially from water bottles, as rabbits often like to ‘play’ with the ball-bearing in the tip of the bottle, leading to polydipsia and polyuria.

As there are many different causes for polyuria and polydipsia, your vet will need to thoroughly evaluate the clinical signs and carry out some diagnostic tests to narrow down the root of the problem.

Blood tests and urinalysis are the most common and will assess kidney function, liver function and the presence of excess blood glucose, as is frequently seen in diabetes. This can usually be done quickly with a day stay in hospital and results are usually back within a few days if samples are sent to an external laboratory.

If bladder/kidney stones are suspected, radiographs or ultrasonography might also be required. This usually requires sedation and a day stay in hospital.

Treatment of polyuria and polydipsia depends on the cause.

For diabetes, it is important to treat the underlying cause which may include weight loss.

For bladder stones, surgery and a change of diet may be needed.

For kidney and liver disease, the rabbit may need to be admitted to hospital for fluid therapy and supportive care as well as further investigations to determine if the condition is reversible.

The living environment of rabbits suffering from psychogenic polydipsia and polyuria will need a thorough review, a physical examination should also be performed to determine the cause and best course of treatment.

Each problem will need to be addressed individually.

To help prevent the incidence of disease that can lead to polyuria and polydipsia, ensure that the rabbit is happy and healthy. The environment should be safe, secure and non-stressful. Ensure the housing offers shelter as well as space where the rabbit can exercise and exhibit normal behaviour.

The rabbit’s water bowl should be large enough to provide at least the daily water requirement, and water should always be clean and fresh.

Food should be suitable and not contribute to obesity or bladder/kidney stones.

Provide environmental enrichment, such as places to hide, nesting material, toys to play with, wood for chewing, herbs to browse and soil to dig in.

Prevent overcrowded housing that can be stressful and promote unnecessary spread of disease. This includes reducing the likelihood of territorial aggression by avoiding housing the rabbit in close quarters with other that are un-neutered or of the same sex.

Ensure prevention of disease by having your rabbit seen at least once a year by your vet for an all over check-up and dental examination.

Provide rapid treatment of disease by consulting your vet at the first sign of any abnormal signs such as lack of appetite, changes in drinking or urination, changes in activity level, hair loss, scratching, excessive grooming, drooling, teeth grinding, changes in hair coat, faecal soiling, flystrike, limping, among others.

Alopecia – hair loss

Alopecia is also known as hair loss, and it typically means partial or complete hair loss on areas of the body where hair is normally found. Alopecia can occur in virtually all animals with hair and is normal in some situations (such as baldness in human males). In most animals, however, it is usually an abnormal condition which can come on suddenly or progress over time, depending on the cause. Alopecia can be unsightly and reduce the insulating and protective capacity of a rabbit’s coat, potentially leading to increased stress and/or development of other conditions for the animal.

A rabbit with alopecia can have small areas of localised baldness, larger patch areas of hair loss, or even generalised hair loss over much of the body. Other signs of hair loss include clumps of hair seen in the rabbit’s environment or within the animal’s faeces. If the rabbit ingests too much of the hair, this can lead to intestinal blockage.

Alopecia is generally caused by disease which disrupts normal growth at the hair follicle, or from physical extraction of the hair. The pattern of hair loss on the body and the extent to which it has occurred will help determine the cause of the problem.

Physical extraction occurs when the rabbit pulls hair out as a result of hormonal or psychological influences, e.g.:

  • Pregnant does (female rabbits) may pull out their own hair from around their dewlap and stomach. This fine hair is used to line the burrow before giving birth. Does are more likely to pull large quantities of hair if they are stressed or if there is not enough quality nesting material present. Similar hormonal changes in a doe with false (or pseudo-) pregnancy can cause the same behaviour.
  • Compulsive hair chewing (barbering) and over-grooming are abnormal behaviours usually related to stress such as overcrowding (territorial bullying) or as a result of insufficient dietary fibre. For animals that self-traumatise, baldness will typically be isolated to those areas of the body that the animal can easily reach with its mouth, leaving the head, face and back of the neck unaffected. For animals that are chewed upon by others, the pattern of hair loss tends to be along the spine or on the head.

Internal disease causing alopecia has many different causes and appearances, eg:

  • In rare cases, rabbits are born with a hereditary condition causing alopecia.
  • Autoimmune disorders, nutritional deficiencies, tumours or side effects from medications commonly result in multiple areas of hair loss or larger areas of hair loss.
  • Trauma from scratching viral, bacterial, fungal or parasitic infections can cause localised patch alopecia with flaky or scabbed skin.
  • Small localised patches can result from trauma as a result of wounds, including bite wounds or other injuries such as burns.
  • Heavy moulting can result in larger areas being affected but does not usually result in complete baldness of these areas.

In many cases, the cause of alopecia can be determined by observing the pattern of hair loss and patient history. If a diagnosis isn’t readily apparent after a thorough physical examination, your vet may need to explore further causes to determine the source of the problem. Some of these diagnostic procedures include microscopic examination, lab tests and diagnostic imaging.

Microscopic examination

Samples of skin or hair are examined to look for fleas, lice, mites, fungus, bacteria or yeasts. Usually collecting these samples is painless or relatively painless for your rabbit. Results may be quick if the source is obvious but more complicated cases require sending the sample to an external laboratory. Testing for fungal infection by culture may take two weeks.

Laboratory tests, biopsies and radiography

Blood tests, urine tests, biopsies and radiography may be useful in determining if there is an autoimmune disorder, tumour, internal infection or other hidden cause. This can usually be done quickly with a day stay in hospital, and results are usually back within a few days if samples are sent to an external laboratory.

Fortunately, in most cases of alopecia, the hair will eventually grow back but specific treatment may be required.

Medications may be necessary to treat heavy parasitic, bacterial or fungal diseases. Wounds, hormonal and autoimmune conditions may require treatment of symptoms until the clinical signs resolve. Tumours may require removal and chemotherapy. Improvements in nutrition and husbandry can help resolve behavioural causes of alopecia. The time period and cost of treatments depend on the cause of the alopecia.

To help reduce the incidence of alopecia, ensure your rabbit is happy and healthy. The rabbit’s environment should be safe, secure and non-stressful. Ensure the housing offers shelter as well as space where the rabbit can exercise and exhibit normal behaviour. Provide environmental enrichment such as places to hide, nesting material, toys to play with, wood for chewing, herbs to browse, and soil to dig in. Prevent overcrowded housing which can be stressful and promote unnecessary spread of disease. Reduce the likelihood of territorial aggression by avoiding housing your rabbit in close quarters with others that are un-neutered or of the same sex.

It is also important to ensure a strong immunity and healthy gut function (that will help prevent faecal soiling of the fur) by offering good quality grass hay as the staple diet with high-fibre pellets and fresh green vegetables to supplement. Minimise environments where parasites can thrive by removing soiled bedding and faeces promptly, and by regularly cleaning and drying the housing environment.

You can reduce the likelihood of over-grooming by ensuring your rabbit is well-groomed, especially during periods of moulting or if it is a long-haired breed.

Finally, ensure prevention of disease by having your rabbit seen at least yearly by your vet for an all-over health check and dental examination. You should provide rapid treatment of disease by consulting with your vet at the first sign of any abnormal signs, such as lack of appetite, changes in drinking or urination, changes in activity level, hair loss, scratching, excessive grooming, drooling, teeth grinding, changes in hair coat, faecal soiling, fly strike, and limping.

Nasal discharge

Discharges from the nose can be clear fluid, mucus, pus, blood or a mixture of substances. The discharge can originate from the nasal area or from deeper in the respiratory tract, e.g. the lungs. There are several causes of nasal discharge, not all of them are infections. The prognosis varies depending on the cause the extent of disease when treatment is sought.

Any of a number of fluids produced in the respiratory tract can drain from your rabbit’s nose. This discharge may be seen on and around the nostrils, but as rabbits use their forepaws to clean their nose, the discharge, wet or dried, may also be seen on the fur on the inside of their front legs.

Rabbits breathe through their nose, so any nasal discharge may detrimentally affect their breathing. Aside from the obvious discharge, clinical signs may also include difficulties breathing, anorexia, sneezing and weight loss. Even with lower respiratory tract disease, coughing is very rare in rabbits.

Nasal discharge may be due to infectious or non-infectious causes.

Infectious causes

  • Bacteria such as Pasteurella multocida and em>Bordetella bronchiseptica commonly cause respiratory disease in rabbits.
  • Viruses are rarely a cause of nasal discharge.
  • In some cases of myxomatosis with secondary bacterial infection, a mucus/pus nasal discharge is seen.
  • In the terminal stages of rabbit haemorrhagic disease, frothy blood originating from the lungs may discharge from the nose.
  • Fungal infection may also affect the nasal cavity.

Other causes

  • Dental disease can obstruct the nasolacrimal tear duct which drains tears from the eyes down the nose. Secondary infection of the nasal cavity may also occur. Infection within the tear duct can drain into the nasal cavity.
  • Trauma to the head, such as an attack by a predator.
  • Nasal tumours.
  • Foreign bodies, such as hay, hair or grass seeds, are common in rabbits, and can lead to infection and nasal discharge.
  • Respiratory irritants, such as smoke, dust and high ammonia levels, irritate the nasal lining and secondary infection can occur.
  • Allergic rhinitis is rare in rabbits.
  • Other factors that are risk factors for respiratory tract disease include poor environmental conditions, e.g. poor ventilation or a dirty environment, overcrowding, other disease which reduces the rabbit’s ability to combat infections, and stress such as transportation.

After examining your rabbit, your vet may suggest some other tests to identify the cause of the discharge and help determine the severity of the condition.

Blood tests can show the overall health of the rabbit, in particular identifying signs of infection.

A deep nasal swab is useful to check for various infections. This is uncomfortable for the rabbit so your vet will need to sedate or anaesthetise your rabbit for this procedure.

Flushing the tear ducts is particularly useful if they are blocked by infection, but may take several attempts to achieve successful flushing. If the tear ducts are severely blocked or scarred it is sometimes impossible to flush them successfully.

Imaging, such as x-rays, endoscopy or computed tomography (CT) are useful to assess the structure of the nasal passages. CT scanning can be expensive, but should be covered by pet health insurance if you have it for your rabbit.

Biopsy of the nasal lining can help diagnose infections or tumours, but this is usually done under general anaesthesia.

General treatments include cleaning the nostrils, nutritional support, oxygen therapy (if your rabbit has difficulty breathing), nebulisation (this can be used to moisten secretions and also to deliver some medications), and anti-inflammatories/pain relief.

More specific treatments may be appropriate for certain diseases, e.g. antibiotics for infections or surgery for dental problems.

As with most diseases, the prognosis depends on the cause and extent of the disease.

Some diseases are readily treatable while others carry a very poor prognosis. For example, if a nasal foreign body is removed and the associated infection treated early, the prognosis is good. However, diseases like rabbit haemorrhagic disease are associated with a very high mortality rate. In chronic cases or rhinitis, a complete cure may not be possible and signs may recur. Nasal tumours are likely to need extensive surgery which may involve referral to a specialist surgeon.

Good care of your rabbit will help reduce the risk of many diseases. Provide your rabbit with a balanced diet made up of 80% grass and hay, 5% extruded nugget and 15% fresh greens, with fresh water available at all times and an appropriate environment in which to live.

To reduce risks of respiratory disease, AVOID the following:

  • Sudden changes in ambient temperature.
  • Poor sanitation: ammonia from waste (urine and faeces) irritates the respiratory passages, as can cigarette smoke and aerosols.
  • Low humidity.
  • Stress: young animals are especially at risk around the time of weaning; overcrowding can also lead to stress.

Choosing a rabbit

Choosing a new pet is a very exciting time but you should take care not to make decisions about a new rabbit on impulse!

Pet shops are the traditional places to buy pet rabbits but, unfortunately, they are not always the best places. Rabbits in pet shops are often stressed and, as a result, are susceptible to disease. Also, you will be unlikely to have information about the rabbit’s parents, which is particularly important in breeds that are prone to inherited diseases.

A list of registered rabbit breeders is available from Pet Plan or the British Rabbit Council. For non-pedigree rabbits contact your local animal welfare charity, or look at the advertisement board in your veterinary practice, newspapers and your local post office or newsagents shop.

When choosing a baby rabbit (called a ‘kitten’) try to see it with its mother and littermates as it is easier to judge its temperament in a natural setting. Also ask about the health of the parents as this may alert you to potential problems.

If you get a rabbit which is already carrying a disease, it may never recover full health and the treatment may be expensive.

A healthy rabbit will have clear bright eyes, clean nostrils and ears and a shiny coat. If your rabbit has runny eyes, sneezing or a nasal discharge it probably has a severe respiratory infection. Being able to see the third eyelid (a membrane in the corner of its eyes nearest the nose) or a dull coat are also signs of ill health. Avoid taking on a rabbit with dirty ears which may be infected with bacteria or ear mites or an animal which is thin.

If you are in any doubt, ask to have the rabbit examined by your vet before agreeing to take it on. In any case make an appointment for any new rabbit to be examined by your vet on the second or third day in your care. Your vet will check that your rabbit is healthy, and give you advice on feeding your rabbit, vaccination and neutering.

Before taking a rabbit home find out about the type of care it was getting. Baby rabbits can leave their mothers from about eight weeks of age. Ask if it has received any vaccinations, if so, you should be given a vaccination record signed by a vet (with details of the rabbit’s identity). You also need to know what sort of food it has been eating. Feed the same food for a few days and reintroduce new foods very gradually over a period of at least 2 weeks (if you need to) so that your rabbit’s digestive system does not get too much of a shock.

Have all the necessary equipment ready before bringing a new rabbit home. You should have the following: a carrying box, food and water bowls, food (including rabbit mix, fresh vegetables and hay), a grooming brush and comb, nail clippers, rabbit toys, and a secure enclosed run. If your rabbit is going to live outside it will need an outdoor hutch with sawdust and straw bedding. If it is going to live inside it will need an indoor cage and a litter tray with rabbit litter.

The first days away from its mother and littermates are understandably stressful for most rabbits. Outdoor rabbits should be confined to their hutch for the first 2-3 days before allowing them out in the run. Indoor rabbits should be kept in their cage in a quiet room for the first few days. If there are young children in the house they must not become overexcited or treat the rabbit like a toy.

Once its first course of vaccinations are completed your rabbit will need two annual booster vaccinations. Regular daily grooming for long-haired rabbits is recommended to keep their coat in good condition and short-haired breeds will also benefit from grooming, particularly when they are moulting. Coat brushing is easier if your rabbit is used to it from an early age.

Rabbits are usually neutered between the ages of four and six months. Some female rabbits can be fertile from the age of four months so make sure you arrange to have your rabbit neutered promptly to avoid adding to the mountain of unwanted baby rabbits that are produced every year.

Register your new pet with your vet as soon as possible and visit the practice to get advice on routine health care and neutering before problems develop.