Category: rabbits

Snuffles – the facts

Posted on August 6, 2018 by - rabbits, respiratory-problems-rabbits

Snuffles is a condition in rabbits that every owner dreads. Once a rabbit develops snuffles it is usually a life-long problem. Fortunately, recent research suggests that it can be prevented just by providing your rabbit with a healthy, balanced diet. Here are some guidelines on how to look after a rabbit with snuffles and also how to protect your rabbits from developing the condition.

What is snuffles and what causes it?

Snuffles is a term used to describe the symptoms of runny eyes, runny nose and sneezing in rabbits. The cause of these symptoms is often a chronic bacterial infection in the tear ducts and nasal sinuses. The bacteria involved are usually Pasteurella spp or Staphylococcus spp.

Rabbits with dental disease are prone to developing snuffles. This is because the tooth roots pass very closely to the tear duct as it drains from the corner of the eye to the nose. When the teeth become overgrown and/or maloccluded (do not meet), the tooth roots push upwards and can obstruct the tear duct. This blockage prevents normal drainage of tears through the duct and allows the bacteria to grow.

It has been suggested that rabbits kept in poorly ventilated hutches may also be prone to developing snuffles. The build-up of fumes from urine or from certain types of wood shavings, e.g. cedar, may cause irritation to the eyes, and possibly trigger snuffles.

How do I know if my rabbit has snuffles?

The first sign of a problem is usually runny eyes with wet, tear-stained fur on the cheeks. The discharge from the eyes is initially clear (just like normal tears). If left untreated, the discharge can become purulent (white-yellow coloured) and the fur around the eyes can fall out.

As the condition progresses, your rabbit will develop a discharge from its nose which it will wipe away with its front paws. You may spot the dried discharge on your rabbit’s front paws.

In severe cases, snuffles can result in pneumonia which requires very intensive treatment – and unfortunately is often fatal.

How is snuffles treated?

If you suspect that your rabbit has snuffles, you should take it to see your vet. He/she will carefully examine your rabbit, including its teeth, and may ask you questions about your rabbit’s diet and housing. Your rabbit’s eyes may be swabbed to collect some of the bacteria from them. These bacteria will be grown in culture and then exposed to different antibiotics. This test is called a ‘culture and sensitivity’ and it will help your vet prescribe the most effective antibiotic for your rabbit. The antibiotics are usually in the form of drops or cream to be applied directly to the eyes. Your vet or veterinary nurse will demonstrate how to administer the drops correctly.

Oral antibiotics may also be necessary to treat the infection in the nasal sinuses. You will need to administer these directly into your rabbit’s mouth using a syringe. Ask your vet or veterinary nurse to show you how to do this if you are unsure.

Your vet may recommend that your rabbit has its tear duct(s) flushed with an antibiotic solution. Flushing removes any pus and bacteria from the blocked duct and helps the antibiotics to penetrate the duct and be more effective. Your rabbit may need to be sedated for this procedure.

If your rabbit is found to have problems with its teeth, it may need to have them clipped or filed. This is usually performed under general anaesthesia. Your vet may also recommend some changes to your rabbit’s diet to help prevent further teeth problems.

Snuffles is a difficult disease to cure and treatment may need to be continued for several months before the condition improves.

What can I do to prevent my rabbit getting snuffles?

Ensure that your rabbit’s living quarters are well ventilated and are regularly cleaned-out to prevent the build-up of fumes from urine. Also do not use cedar shavings for bedding.

Recent research by veterinary surgeons and rabbit food companies has shown that there is a strong relationship between rabbit’s diet and dental disease. Rabbits with dental problems are prone to snuffles, so the best way of protecting your rabbit from snuffles, is to ensure that its teeth are healthy and this may require changes to your rabbits diet.

Rabbits in the wild eat a very high-fibre diet consisting predominantly of grass, hay and bark, and they rarely suffer from dental problems. As rabbit’s teeth grow throughout their life, they need to be continually worn down by the action of chewing on food. The major consitituent of your rabbit’s diet should be grass and hay. Only a small amount of commercial rabbit mix should be fed, and this should be one of the high-fibre mixes such as Supreme’s Russell Rabbit Mix or Burgess Supa Rabbit Excel. If you do need to alter your rabbit’s diet introduce the changes gradually over a minimum period of 2 weeks, to allow its digestive system to adjust.

Snoring

Posted on August 6, 2018 by - rabbits, respiratory-problems-rabbits

Rabbits cannot breathe through their mouth if their nose is blocked. Attempted mouth breathing is a sign of respiratory distress and is often accompanied by a blue tinge to the lips and nose. This is a serious and life-threatening condition that needs emergency attention by your vet. However, anything that obstructs the rabbit’s nasal passages or causes a narrrowing may mean that the rabbit emits a ‘snoring’ noise when breathing. This can sometimes be caused by the rabbits’ breed, a foreign body or bacterial infections, and some rabbits may also truly snore!

What causes snoring?

There are many reasons why a rabbit’s nasal passages may be narrow or blocked to some degree.

Many breeds of rabbit, especially lop eared breeds have flattened faces and noses (brachycephalic), which, as in similar flat-nosed breeds of cats and dogs, e.g. Bulldogs, Pugs and Pekinese, causes a snoring sound to be heard when the animal breathes. This is a congenital problem caused by the animal’s breeding and is often not life-threatening, as long as nothing else obstructs the nasal passages.

Foreign bodies, e.g. grass/hay seeds/hair, may be breathed in and lodge in one or even both of the nasal passages. This will often be accompanied by sneezing, nose rubbing and discharge from the affected nostril(s). In these cases, veterinary advice and attention should be sought.

Rabbits often harbour some degree of subclinical bacterial infection in their lungs and airways, especially as they age. The most common bacteria that is found is Pasteurella multocida. This often strikes fear into rabbit owners as the bacteria can be responsible for a host of rabbit health related problems (abscesses, respiratory infections, etc), but in truth many rabbits carry the bacteria, often for years/life, without any problems arising. Problems arise once the rabbits’ immune system is compromised (often for another health problem), and the immune system is weakened so is no longer able to keep the Pasteurella ‘in-check’. This is when it often takes hold and some form of clinical signs associated with the bacteria may be seen.

Is snoring dangerous?

This depends on the reason for the snoring!

If the rabbit is well and has been checked out by your vet and deemed healthy, then monitoring the situation is the best course of action. However, if the problem is causing any respiratory distress, the rabbit is cyanotic (blue mucous membranes) or is distressed in any other way, then you must get your rabbit to your vet straight away as this is an emergency situation.

Why does my rabbit only snore when sleeping?

Some rabbits do simply seem to snore when they are asleep, much like people. This is often the case in rabbits who may be slightly overweight or as the rabbit ages, and is caused by a slightly floppy soft palate.

If your rabbit only snores when asleep or very relaxed, and has no signs of respiratory infection or a foreign body, then it would be assumed that the rabbit is just snoring!

Snoring can be totally harmless and normal for some rabbits, but if your rabbit is in any way distressed or it happens suddenly without any previous episodes, then it is always best to seek veterinary advice to rule out any potential problems.

Viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD)

Posted on August 6, 2018 by - infectious-diseases-rabbits, rabbits

There are several highly infectious and potentially fatal diseases that can affect your rabbit. Viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD or HVD) is one of the most common. There are two strains of VHD (VHD1 and ‘new variant’ VHD2). VHD1 was first discovered in China in 1984 in rabbits that had been imported from Germany, and it arrived in the UK in 1992. VHD2 was first recognised in France in 2010 and soon after came to the UK. To ensure your rabbit is protected against these diseases, vaccination is essential.

What is VHD?

VHD is a viral condition which only affects rabbits, although a similar disease (European Brown Hare Syndrome) has been reported in hares, which is caused by a related virus, although it does not cross-infect.

VHD is caused by a highly contagious virus called the calicivirus. VHD1 is nearly always rapidly fatal the virus attacks the internal organs, particularly the liver, causing massive internal bleeding (haemorrhage). Death occurs in almost 100% of affected rabbits within less than 48 hours.

VHD2 has a slower onset of symptoms, which can be very non-specific. These may range from anorexia, lethargy, simply being off colour, to sudden and unexplained death. The mortality rate of VHD2 is between 7-20% of affected rabbits and death is over the course of several days. Unlike VHD1, rabbits under the age of 6 weeks seem to have no immunity to VHD2.

VHD and what strain is responsible can only be confirmed on post-mortem.

How is VHD transmitted?

Both strains of VHD are transmitted by direct contact with the nasal secretions and saliva of infected rabbits. It can also be spread indirectly by aerosol exposure to contaminated fomites (objects) and mechanically via equipment and clothing. Insects, rodents and birds may also be able to carry the virus and infect isolated rabbits (such as pet rabbits).

VHD is very resilient to environmental changes and can survive freezing conditions.

How do I know if my rabbit has VHD?

If your rabbit is suffering from VHD you may notice symptoms such as a high fever (pyrexia), lethargy, collapse, convulsions, paralysis, breathing difficulties (dyspnoea) and loss of appetite. However, the symptoms of VHD2 can be very vague and some rabbits may not show any symptoms. With both strains, some rabbits can appear to be fine and then when seen several hours later be found dead or dying.

There are several forms which VHD1 may take:

  • Rabbits under the age of 6 weeks are not affected by VHD1, although those between the ages of 4-6 weeks may show symptoms but survive.
  • If the disease takes it severest form (hyperacute) then the infected rabbit will often be found dead 16 hours 3 days after infection, with blood having come from the mouth, nose and possibly back end.
  • Rabbits with an acute form of the disease will show lethargy and anorexia, followed by convulsions, epistaxis (bleeding from the nose) and death. All rabbits infected with this form will die.
  • A small percentage of rabbits may develop a chronic form of the disease. These rabbits display symptoms of jaundice (yellow colouration to the skin and eyes), weight loss and lethargy and die 1-2 weeks after infection from liver failure.
  • VHD2 appears less defined and as a relatively new strain of the virus information and knowledge is being gleaned all the time. It appears that VHD2 often has non-specific symptoms which can be put down to other diseases in rabbits.

Can my rabbit be treated?

Unfortunately there is no cure for either strain of VHD disease, and VHD1 is almost always fatal, with most rabbits dying within a few days. Owners are often unaware that their rabbit is even ill as VHD can be fatal in a matter of hours. A percentage of VHD2 rabbits do survive, but the exact amount is still unclear.

How can I prevent my rabbit from contracting VHD?

Vaccination

Vaccination is essential and very successful. Your rabbit can be vaccinated against VHD1 when it reaches 5 weeks of age. The vaccination that is now given to rabbits combines the VHD1 and myxomatosis vaccination together.

Rabbits who have previously been vaccinated with any other brand of myxomatosis vaccine, other than the Nobivac Myxo vaccine, may fail to respond to the VHD element of the combined myxomatosis and VHD vaccination. If you feel your rabbit may be one of these, you should speak to your vet.

Pregnant does and bucks intended for breeding should not be vaccinated with the combined Myxo-RHD vaccination since safety of the vaccination in these groups has not been tested.

Your rabbit will require a booster injection every year to ensure continued protection against the disease.

Vaccination for VHD2 is not included in the Nobivac Myxo-RHD vaccine, so your rabbit will require a further vaccination to help protect against VHD2. There is no UK-based vaccine for VHD2, but several vaccines from Europe have been given Special Import Certificates (SICs) from the Veterinary Medicines Directorate (VMD) to enable vets to order them and use them on rabbits in the UK.

Filavac VHD K C + V comes from France and is the most commonly used vaccine in the UK. The vaccine is given to rabbits over the age of 10 weeks and requires a single initial vaccine followed by a 6 monthly booster in areas where VHD2 cases have been confirmed, or an annual booster in low risk areas. The vaccine offers protection for both VHD1 and VHD2 strains. A two week gap must be left between giving Filavac and Nobivac Myxo-RHD vaccines as no clinical trials have been undertaken with the use of the two vaccines together.

Cunivak RHD from Germany is also obtained via an SIC from the VMD. This vaccine requires an initial vaccination from 4 weeks of age which is repeated after 3 weeks and then an annual booster; two weeks must be left between the vaccine and Nobivac Myxo-RHD. The vaccine covers both VHD1 and VHD2 strains.

Cunipravac RHD Variant from Spain is obtained via a Special Treatment Certificate. The vaccine is oil based so skin reactions are much more likely. The vaccine can be administered from 4 weeks of age and requires a further vaccine 6 weeks later with boosters every 6 months. As the vaccine only comes in multidose vials, it has currently not proven popular in the UK! It offers protection against VHD2 and two weeks must be left between the vaccine and Nobivac Myxo-RHD.

The only vaccine in the UK that currently offers protection against Myxomatosis is the Nobivac Myxo-RHD so it is imperative not to cease vaccinating with Nobivac, but to add in another vaccine to protect against VHD2.

Your vet will be able to advise on their vaccination protocol and the available vaccine(s) they have in stock.

Other precautions

No vaccine is ever 100% guaranteed to prevent a disease, so other precautions can be taken to prevent your rabbit contracting VHD.

Don’t handle rabbits in pet shops or other similar environments and ensure you wash your hands thoroughly after coming into contact with other rabbits. All your rabbits bedding and food should be bought from reputable pet shops to ensure there is no contamination.

If you live in a high-risk area, consider hanging insect repellent strips and mosquito netting over your rabbits hutch to prevent him coming into contact with VHD vectors. You should also ensure that your rabbits bedding is kept clean and dry, to avoid attracting unwanted insects.

Make sure your garden is not accessible to wild rabbits and other wildlife; this will prevent your rabbit coming into contact with wild rabbit carrying the disease.

If you have other pets that come into contact with your rabbit, such as dogs or cats, make sure they are also regularly treated for fleas with a product from your veterinary surgery, as these are potent enough to ensure the fleas, larvae and eggs are all killed.

Myxomatosis (‘myxy’)

Posted on August 6, 2018 by - infectious-diseases-rabbits, rabbits

Italian microbiologist Sanarelli first reported myxomatosis in 1896, when a laboratory rabbit colony he had imported into Uruguay for public health research suddenly died of an extremely infectious disease. The virus was identified in the 1930s and has subsequently been used in the biological control of rabbit populations in Australia and France in the 1950s. It spread from France to the UK in 1953 where it decimated the European wild rabbit population and is now widespread both in wild and domestic rabbits in the UK.

What is myxomatosis?

Myxomatosis is an infectious disease caused by the myxoma virus which is spread by biting flies or fleas and by mechanical vectors such as non-biting insects, bedding and food. The virus causes cells of the epidermis (the outermost layer of the skin) to die, and an accumulation of fluid beneath the dermis (the layer of skin below the epidermis).

The virus is usually introduced by biting insects, which causes local skin trauma, the introduction of the virus into the bloodstream and multiple skin eruptions (a rash).

Myxomatosis is widespread throughout the UK and has a higher seasonal prevalence in late summer, autumn and early winter. Both sexes and all breeds of rabbit can be affected with myxomatosis.

How is myxomatosis transmitted?

The main form of transmission is via insects like the rabbit flea (Spilopsyllus cuniculi) and mosquitoes. Dog and cat fleas can also carry the virus. The virus is also found in discharges, and transmission by mechanical vectors such as non-biting insects, bedding and food also occurs.

The virus can remain in the blood of the insect for many months and the ability of the bacteria to cause the disease can vary from year to year.

Signs of disease usually show within 8 days of transmission and the duration of illness usually lasts between 11 and 18 days. Death usually occurs within 14 days of infection from an overwhelming bacterial infection or acute respiratory infection.

How do I know if my rabbit has myxomatosis?

The most obvious signs of infection are swelling of the lips, eyelids and genitals; infected rabbits can also suffer from a high temperature (pyrexia), depression, localised skin nodules (lumps) and noisy, laboured breathing.

There are two forms of myxomatosis, acute (sudden onset) and chronic (long-term).

Acute

  • Initially your rabbit will appear bright but may develop swelling around the lips, eyelids and genitals.
  • Your rabbit may become lethargic and develop a temperature with swollen eyelids causing blindness, but will still try to eat and can be hand fed.
  • Because rabbits breathe through their nose swelling of the nose can lead to suffocation.
  • These in turn may lead to lung infection and death.

Chronic

  • Your rabbit will develop skin swellings, called myxomas or ‘pseudotumours’, which develop after 10-15 days, mainly on the ears, nose and paws.
  • The swellings, which heal to leave scabs, soon disappear.
  • 50% of rabbits can survive this form of myxomatosis so this is the form that can be treated.

Can my rabbit be treated?

Wild rabbits tend not to survive as long as domestic rabbits, as blindness and debility make them susceptible to predation from foxes and road accidents. Pet rabbits however, can survive longer with nursing care, but are usually put to sleep on humane grounds to prevent unnecessary suffering.

Fifty percent of rabbits usually survive the chronic nodular form; those affected with the chronic form may survive following infection; but the acute form is fatal and affected rabbits usually die within 2 weeks. Vaccinated rabbits can also be affected but show less severe signs and are more often than not possible to nurse through the disease, although nursing care can be intensive and take many weeks if not months.

Medical treatment usually involves eye drops, antibiotics and gastrointestinal stimulants, with hand-feeding/syringe feeding, as well as general nursing to keep the rabbit clean, dry and warm.

How can I prevent my rabbit from catching myxomatosis?

Myxomatosis is very common in wild rabbits but is also seen in pet rabbits, so make sure your rabbits hutch isn’t sited near wild rabbit populations. If you are unsure of the status of wild rabbits in your area, contact your local farmer, as they are often able to give an indication of current disease in a geographical area.

The virus is resistant to dryness and cold but not to heat and light, so the use of disinfectants such as bleach or caustic soda is extremely beneficial, although ensure that your rabbit’s hutch is thoroughly dry before returning your rabbit to it and bowls, bottles, etc are rinsed before using them again.

A combined vaccination is available for myxomatosis which also vaccinates against viral haemorrhagic disease 1 (VHD1). Immunity develops within 21 days of vaccination; your vet will examine your rabbit to ensure they are healthy at the time of vaccination, since rabbits already fighting illness may not respond to vaccination.

Vaccination can be started at 5 weeks of age and is best given in May or June before the peak myxomatosis season in late summer and autumn. The vaccine is not recommended in pregnant does or bucks used for breeding. An annual booster is sufficient to protect against both myxomatosis and VHD1. Your rabbit will require a separate vaccination to protect against VHD2.

If you live in a high-risk area, also consider hanging insect repellent strips and mosquito netting over your rabbit’s hutch to prevent him coming into contact with myxomatosis vectors. You should also ensure that your rabbits bedding is kept clean and dry, to avoid attracting unwanted insects.

Make sure your garden is not accessible to wild rabbits; this will prevent your rabbit coming into contact with wild rabbits that may be carrying the disease.

If you have other pets that come into contact with your rabbit, such as dogs or cats, make sure they are also regularly treated for fleas with products available from your veterinary surgery.

Herpes virus infection

Posted on August 6, 2018 by - infectious-diseases-rabbits, rabbits

The order of herpes viruses is known as Herpesvirales; it is a large group of viruses that includes various strains that infect humans and many types of animals through direct contact with body fluids. The herpes virus is highly contagious and is characterised by latent and recurring infections. It inhabits the cells of the body and lies dormant until it is triggered to re-emerge. It is typically a life-long infection due to the viruses’ ability to evade detection by the host’s immune system.

How are rabbits affected by the herpes virus?

During the active stage of the disease, herpes virus replication within cells causes development of tissue lesions in the affected area. Many strains of the herpes virus produce external blisters and sores on the skin and these are highly contagious and can be transmittable between species. Some species of herpes virus can be transmitted between humans and animals but transmission from animals to humans is rare.

Rabbits can acquire a handful of different herpes viruses, but for pet rabbits, the most common infections are caused by Herpes simplex virus 1 (HSV-1), Herpes cuniculi (LHV-4), Herpes cuniculi (LHV-2) and Herpes sylvilagus (LHV-1/LHV-3).

Herpes simplex virus 1 (HSV-1)

A form of the virus that is thought to be specific to humans, but the external lesions make it easily transmittable to other species, including pet rabbits. One of the most common ways HSV-1 can affect rabbits is by infecting the eyes. Signs of this condition can include watery eyes, squinting, conjunctivitis (redness around the eyelids), ulceration of the cornea and blindness. It is a condition that can come and go as the virus re-emerges after periods of dormancy. Exposure of the HSV-1 strain to pet rabbits has also rarely resulted in brain lesions. This condition leads to seizures, coma and death.

Herpes cuniculi (LHV-4)

A form of the virus specific to domestic rabbits and is the most common naturally acquired strain of herpes virus in pet rabbits. It has also been seen occasionally in wild rabbits. This strain has mostly been seen in North America, and is usually found when larger colonies have been infected. It is highly contagious and young females seem more likely to be infected. The most common signs include wounds and blisters on the face, back, eyes and genitals, but other more serious signs can occur, including a swollen face, discharge from the nose and eyes, respiratory distress, anorexia and sudden death.

Herpes cuniculi (LHV-2)

Indigenous to domestic rabbits, but causes no signs of disease, so is difficult to detect.

Herpes sylvilagus (LHV-1/LHV-3)

Indigenous to wild cottontail rabbits, and is not known to infect domestic rabbits. It causes lesions in the throat, lymph nodes, liver, kidney and spleen.

How is herpes virus infection diagnosed?

Diagnosis varies depending on the strain of the disease. For mild or common strains, the veterinarian can diagnose the disease by observing clinical signs or taking blood or tissue samples and sending them to the laboratory for analysis.

For some tests, general anaesthesia may be required.

How is the infection treated?

As with all viruses, treatment is aimed at supporting the animal until the virus can be largely controlled by the animal’s immune system. Since herpes viruses cannot be cured, there is no treatment that will eliminate the disease, but when the virus is active and signs of disease are seen, supportive treatment can be provided. For mild cases, this may mean giving pain relief, helping to minimise secondary bacterial infection by keeping wounds clean and administering nutrition and fluid support to help the animal recover faster. In some cases, the veterinarian may prescribe anti-viral medications to help the immune system combat the virus.

How can the disease be controlled?

When the virus is active, the animal may be able to shed the virus to other animals, and possibly even humans, so the rabbit must be isolated from other animals and excellent hygiene adhered to at all times. Once the virus returns to a dormant phase, the animal will still be a carrier and may shed the disease to other animals so it should be housed to ensure that cross-contamination with other animals does not occur. Outbreaks of the disease can occur at any time, especially during seasonal changes or throughout periods of stress.

Rabbit proofing your home

Posted on August 6, 2018 by - owning a rabbit, rabbits

Living with a house rabbit isn’t something that happens with little or no preparation, and one of the most important things you need to do before moving a bunny into your home is to make the environment safe for them. Remember that chewing and digging are natural behaviours for rabbits and they generally aren’t fussy about what they test their teeth and claws on, so it is up to you to ensure you possessions are rabbit proofed.

Why do rabbits chew and dig?

Domestic rabbits have retained many of their wild ancestors natural behavioural traits, including chewing and digging!

Wild rabbits chew on coarse material, such as tree bark to ensure that their continually growing teeth are kept at the correct length. Pet rabbits often don’t have such means of keeping their teeth in tip-top condition, so rely upon other methods.

In the wild rabbits dig extensive burrow systems, and again very few pet rabbits live in such a set-up, so find other methods of expressing this natural behaviour.

How can I stop my rabbit destroying my possessions?

You can’t and shouldn’t try and stop a rabbit from chewing or digging. These are natural behaviours and if you bring a rabbit into your home you must expect some wear and tear on your possessions. However, it isn’t unreasonable to not want to have teeth marks or scratches over your entire house!

Firstly, always ensure that your rabbit has a constant supply of good quality, fresh hay to eat. Not only does hay provide the vital high-fibre diet, essential to keep a rabbits digestive system working properly, but the abrasive texture of hay helps to ensure correct dental wear, as well as keeping the rabbit occupied and hopefully diverting their attention away from things they really shouldn’t be chewing!

You can also give the rabbit a selection of toys, such as tough plastic baby rattles, balls, boxes of straw and hay to dig in, pine cones or any of the toys now on the market that are designed for rabbits.

Putting them in a safe enclosure in the garden for several hours, whenever possible, where they are allowed to dig in the earth and chew on toys placed in the enclosure, may help to satisfy their need.

What and how should I rabbit proof?

Rabbit proofing your home serves two main purposes; to protect the rabbit from dangerous situations and to protect your possessions.

Firstly a look at what hazards our homes may hold for our pet rabbits:

Electric cables

All electric cables must either be put out of the rabbits reach (remembering how tall the rabbit is when they stand on their back legs and that rabbits are experts at getting into small spaces).

If this isn’t possible then the wires must be protected. Rabbits have very sharp teeth and a wire is often too good to resist a nibble on, with often-fatal consequences.

Cables can be protected by placing them inside tough, durable plastic tubing, these are usually available from aquatic stockists (used as tubing for ponds and fish tanks).  If the plug comes off the appliance you can remove this and slide the wire into the tubing.  If the appliance has a fixed plug, simply slit the tubing down one side so you can open it up to put the wire inside it. You must check tubing regularly as rabbits may still attempt to chew at it and it may need replacing from time to time.

Electrical items (computers, TVs, washing machines, etc)

It has already been mentioned above, that any electrical item may cause a danger to your rabbit, unless all of the cables are placed out of the rabbits reach or protected, and it is also in your own best interests to adhere to this, to protect your electrical items, as well as your rabbit.

Telephone/internet cables

Although these don’t pose an electrocution risk to rabbits, you may want to place them out of their way, or protect them in the same way as suggested for electrical cables, otherwise you may be spending a small fortune on continually replacing them and many house rabbit owners have had their telephone conversations or internet connection abruptly ended by a bunny chewing through the wire!

Poisonous plants

A variety of plants and flowers kept as houseplants are deemed to be poisonous to rabbits to some degree or another, with possible consequences of ingestion ranging from: dribbling from the mouth, fits, loss of balance/consciousness or even death. Rabbits are unable to vomit, so any toxic substance that is eaten, cannot be eliminated in this way.

Plants/flowers that may be toxic to rabbits if eaten include: Chrysanthemum, daffodil, tulip, hyacinth, lily, poppy and rhododendron. However, a wide variety of many other plants and flowers are also harmful, so all houseplants are best kept well out of the reach of rabbits.

Accidental injury

Rabbits like to run around your feet, as well as playing under tables, behind sofas and generally anywhere else they can gain access too and which looks fun!

It is all too easy to accidentally kick a rabbit or even shut a door on them, as they make little or no noise as they move. So, always ensure you tread very carefully, paying attention to what you are doing to make sure that there is no bunny in the way, before you shut doors, move chairs, open cupboards or make any movements.

Now onto protecting your possessions – It has already been established why rabbits chew and dig and some methods on how you can try to stop them destroying some of your possessions. However, it is useful to know exactly what may be tempting for them to nibble on and other ways of trying to stop untoward behaviour.

Your furniture

Cupboards, sofas, chairs, tables etc may be targets for chewing. It is easiest to deny the rabbit access to these areas, or only allow them access under supervision.

If this isn’t possible then you can try an anti-chewing repellent, which can be purchased from pet shops or your vet, however the majority of people report minimal success with anti-chewing repellents when used for rabbits, but some people have reported success with putting lemon juice onto paint or woodwork. Before spraying the whole area, be sure to do a sample test on a small area to ensure the product isn’t going to damage your furniture.

Books

Never leave any books or magazines lying around the place, unless you want nibbled corners or missing paragraphs! Having a houserabbit does force you and your family to pack things away when you have finished with them, otherwise they may not be in the same state you left them in when you come to find them again!

Carpets

Rabbits will often have one or two places which they will decide to use as a digging area, often much to an owner’s annoyance!

A cheap and simple solution is to get hold of some carpet samples, which are frequently thrown out by carpet shops, and place these over the affected areas. These are cheap and easy to replace and the rabbit can use them to dig on to their hearts content. Plastic carpet covers are another useful solution to cover problem areas. Although neither may look pleasant to the eye if situated within a prominent area of the house, they will at least spare your carpet.

Chewing and swallowing pieces of carpet can be harmful to rabbits if the carpet accumulates in the digestive tract, it may cause the digestive system to slow down or stop which is a very serious health concern and requires immediate veterinary treatment.

Wallpaper

Swallowing wallpaper can be just as dangerous, as wallpaper paste may contain chemicals that are harmful to rabbits, and there is also the possibility of the paper swelling up inside the rabbit.

You can try blocking off the rabbits access to any problem areas, by relocating furniture over the area (which may also work with carpet chewing), although this may simply not be practical.

One solution, although this is often not a very attractive solution, is to cover the affected area of wallpaper with clear, plastic perspex up to the stretching height of the rabbit and if all else fails you can try painting your walls instead of using wallpaper!

What other reasons are there for destructive behaviour?

By and large, the simple answer to destructive behaviour from rabbits is that they are bored or simply enjoy doing it as it satisfies their natural instincts, but excessive chewing may also be a sign of dental problems, so you should ensure that your rabbit has a thorough veterinary health check, paying special attention to the mouth and teeth (which may require sedation to get a proper look at the back teeth), to rule this out as a cause.

Catching them in the act!

If you catch your rabbit chewing or digging at something they shouldn’t be then a quick spray of water, aimed at their body, or clapping your hands or stamping your feet are usually enough to stop the rabbit in its tracks, and the rabbit shouldn’t associate the punishment with you. If you offer the reprimand immediately, they should learn that if they perform a particular behaviour, in a particular place, then something unpleasant might happen. But you have to be instant with your reaction and repeat it each time. Any time delay will only confuse the rabbit as to why they are being told off.

However, you must never, ever shout or smack a rabbit. Rabbits are naturally timid animals with humans being one of their natural predators, so any behaviour that reinforces their belief that you are a threat to them will damage your relationship with your rabbit.

What if I really can't cope with my rabbit's destructive behaviour?

If you have tried all the possible solutions and have ruled out a health problem you have two possible courses of action:

  • You can ask for a referral to a behaviourist who has specialist knowledge in rabbit behaviour and may be able to help you more on a one to one basis with advice aimed specifically at your rabbit. Your vet should be able to put you in touch with a suitable behaviourist, or the Rabbit Welfare Association will be able to.
  • If you don’t wish to pursue the option of further help, then having the rabbit as a house rabbit may not be the best option and it may be better for not only yourself, but also the rabbit if they moved from the house to a suitable outdoor enclosure with another rabbit for company.

Rabbit companions

Posted on August 6, 2018 by - owning a rabbit, rabbits

Rabbits are social animals; in the wild large groups will live happily together, providing company, security and physical grooming to each other. Company of their own kind is just as important for pet rabbits too. However, to ensure that the bonding process is as trouble-free as possible, there are some simple, but important guidelines that should be followed.

Which are the most successful combinations?

The most successful combination tends to be a male (buck) and female (doe), with both individuals neutered (around 4-5 months for bucks and 5-6 months for does). Obviously if neither animal is neutered you’ll soon end up with lots of baby bunnies!

If only the doe is neutered the buck will constantly try and mate with the doe, which will antagonise her and lead to possible conflict between the two animals. If you just neuter the buck, the doe may actually try and mount the buck, which again will cause upset between the two rabbits, and the doe will also still be at an increased risk of uterine cancer; affecting up to 80% of unspayed does by the age of 5 years. Some occasional mounting behaviour is a normal display of dominance, even between two neutered rabbits.

What about same sex combinations?

Rabbits of the same sex can live together but bonding two rabbits of the same sex is often much harder, takes a lot longer, has a higher failure rate, and any fights are likely to be much more serious and vicious. If you are attempting to bond two rabbits of the same sex, then ideally they should be introduced at a young age and neutering of both animals is essential.

What about guinea pigs?

Up until a few years ago, many rabbit books recommended keeping guinea pigs with rabbits for companionship reasons, but the tide has turned and now the majority of rabbit and guinea pig books, as well as rescue centres, animal organisations and vets, agree that the two should be kept with their own kind and not mixed.

Provided all the rabbits and any male guinea pigs are neutered, they can cope quite well together. But guinea pigs are rodents and have different dietary requirements from rabbits. Guinea pigs are unable to synthesise their own vitamin C, so require fresh foods high in vitamin C (dark leafy vegetables such as dandelion leaves, spring greens, kale, etc). These foods also provide rabbits with essential fibre.

Even docile rabbits will often bully and molest guinea pigs; chasing them, biting them, mounting them or even sitting on them, which can cause serious and fatal injuries to the guinea pig, not to mention the stress they endure. The majority of this is sexual frustration and is avoided if the rabbits and male guinea pigs are neutered.

Even the smallest of rabbits is going to be comparable in size to a guinea pig, with powerful back legs, which are more than capable of causing serious injury to a guinea pig. Having a hideaway where only the guinea pig can fit into isn’t a satisfactory compromise as there may be occasions when the guinea pig is unable to reach its safe area, e.g. if it is backed into a corner. However, in the rabbit’s defence, it has also been known for guinea pigs to bully rabbits!

How should rabbits be bonded?

Having ascertained that rabbits should live with other rabbits and that company in the form of another bunny is preferable, how do you actually go about trying to bond rabbits?

The bonding process is the same if you are attempting to bond two rabbits of the same sex or one of each sex, though as has already been aforementioned, one doe and one buck is usually easier and quicker to bond and bonding of two same sex rabbits is liable to fail.

Rabbits are often very territorial and introductions need to be done carefully. Firstly both rabbits must be neutered; if the rabbits aren’t old enough to be neutered then continue at stage 1 until both have been neutered and recovered from their operations (baring in mind that a buck may still be able to impregnate a doe for at least 3 weeks after castration, so keeping a doe and buck apart for around 4 weeks after neutering is advisable).

Stage 1

Place each rabbit in a cage, where they can see and smell each other through the wire of the cages, but cannot get at each other to cause injury. Swap their litter trays and toys over every day, so each bunny gets used to the others scent.

Stage 2:

When you are happy that the rabbits are both at ease with each other and showing no aggression you can begin mixing them for supervised, short periods of time in a neutral place – somewhere where neither rabbit has been before, so could claim as their territory, i.e. a room in the house, bath-tub, new run, etc.

Place lots of toys in the area (rattles, tunnels, boxes to hide in, balls etc, which has neither rabbits scent on) to help distract the rabbits attention from each other and at least two feeding bowls so the rabbits don’t feel they have to compete for food.

Some chasing, nipping or mounting is perfectly normal. Continue putting the rabbits together like this on a daily basis or several times a day if possible, until the rabbits seem to accept each other. Leave them together for as long as possible (always supervised), increasing the time when you feel they are comfortable with each other.

Sometimes rabbits can just ‘fall in love at first sight’ and if this happens, followed by mutual grooming of each other, they should be OK to be left together unsupervised, as this is the stage that you want to achieve.

If serious fighting breaks out, separate the rabbits immediately (being very careful not to get bitten yourself – use blankets, cushions or cardboard sheets to push between them) and revert back to stage 1, until the aggression disappears, and then move back onto stage 2 again (this may have to be repeated several times).

Car journeys:

If the rabbits seem accepting of each other, but are still showing some nipping and chasing of each other, you can also try taking them for car journeys. Place the bunnies in a large enough carrier for two bunnies and take them for a short car journey. This is a stressful experience, so the rabbits will rely upon each other for support, rather than attempting to fight, and begin to form a bond. If any tension is shown then separate the rabbits immediately, but the journey times can be gradually increased if both rabbits seem okay. This can be done daily or as often as you feel necessary, for as long as necessary.

Stage 3:

The aim is to get the rabbits to accept one another and rely upon each other for support and company. Once the rabbits have begun grooming each other you can be pretty confident that no real aggression will be shown from this point on, but it is very wise to keep a close eye on them both for several weeks afterwards.

There are no set rules for bonding rabbits it can be an instant attraction or take many weeks or months of hard work. Sometimes you may never be able to bond two specific rabbits together.

Rabbits do have distinct preferences as to who they want to live with and will sometimes not bond with a specific rabbit, only to happily accept the next bunny you try and bond to them. Even bonded pairs may have tiffs when an increase or return of nipping, chasing and mounting may be seen (usually around spring). This is normal and as long as no real aggression is shown they shouldn’t be separated. However, it is wise to keep a closer eye on both rabbits at these times.

Can rabbits that have lived alone for years have a bunny companion?

Yes, even rabbits who haven’t set eyes on another bunny for many years can happily accept a bunny pal and often a younger pal will give an elderly bunny a new lease of life in their twilight years.

My house rabbit gets lots of human company - does he still need a bunny companion?

This is largely dependent upon how much time you are able to spend with your rabbit. For people who work all day, it may be worth considering getting your rabbit a friend to keep him company whilst there is no-one in the house. But if you are at home for a large percentage of time, and able to spend time giving your bunny company then you may feel that he doesn’t need a bunny pal.

Can I introduce a third bunny to a bonded pair?

This rarely works and can seriously damage the bond between the two existing rabbits so is not recommended. The saying twos company, threes a crowd is very true! If you have enough space and time, mixing two already bonded pairs can be easier than adding a single rabbit, but each pair needs its own personal territory so be prepared for lots of nipping and chasing!

Where can I get a companion for my bunny?

A rescue centre is usually the best place. Often the rabbits are already neutered and some will also allow you to take your bunny along to select a friend for an existing bunny. Be certain that your rabbit’s vaccinations are up-to-date before taking it along.

Another added advantage is that if you really can’t bond a rabbit from a rescue centre to your existing bunny, the rescue centre should be able to take the bunny back and you can try your rabbit with another from the centre.

What happens if one bunny falls ill?

Bonded pairs should never be separated; what illnesses one rabbit has the other is liable to already have anyway. If one rabbit has to go to the veterinary surgery, or be hospitalised, then take its mate along for company. Often having their mate there will give the sick rabbit encouragement to carry on and taking their mate away when they are ill will only depress and upset both rabbits.

Frequently, bonded pairs who are split up, for even a short amount of time will have to be re-bonded when being introduced again and may not accept each other again, so it is imperative that pairs are never separated unless it is detrimental to one or both of their health to stay together.

What should I do if one of a bonded pairs dies?

When the sad time comes you will be understandably very upset, but your rabbit may also be affected and there are things that you can do to make this time easier on them.

Try and let the rabbit that has been left behind, spend some time with their companion’s body. This enables the rabbit to realise that their friend has gone. The rabbit may initially nudge the body trying to get them to move. This can go on for seconds, minutes or hours and if possible it is best to leave the body with the remaining rabbit until they lose interest in it and move away from them. At this point you can remove the rabbit’s body.

Watch the rabbit closely for any changes in their behaviour. They may seem more lethargic and depressed and not want to eat as much. Ensure that they keep eating, drinking, urinating and passing faeces and if you are concerned about their health then contact your vet straight away.

Spend more time with your rabbit. They are used to having a constant companion so will be feeling lonely, confused and maybe scared. Offer them their favourite foods, play games with them or just sit, stroke and talk to them gently.

Consider getting another rabbit as a companion. This may feel like the last thing on your mind but it may be the best option for the rabbit that has been left behind. Rescue centres always have rabbits that are in need of a loving home and will often come fully vaccinated and neutered and many rescue centres will undertake bonding introductions so you can see if the rabbits are going to get along together.

Things to remember

  • Introduce only neutered rabbits, regardless of sex.
  • One buck and one doe is the most successful combination.
  • Introduce rabbits on neutral territory.
  • Never split up bonded pairs unless serious fighting occurs.
  • Introduction a third rabbit into a bonded pair rarely works.
  • Some nipping, chasing or mounting is normal, even in bonded pairs.
  • Immediately separate rabbits if serious fighting occurs.
  • It may not be a good idea to mix rabbits and guinea pigs.
  • Try and go to a rescue centre to acquire a bunny-pal.
  • It may be love at first sight but it could also take months of perseverance.

Is a rabbit right for me?

Posted on August 6, 2018 by - owning a rabbit, rabbits

Rabbits are now the third most popular pet animal in the UK. TV programmes like Pet Rescue and Animal Hospital and organisations like the British House Rabbit Association are educating people about responsible rabbit ownership. This is resulting in a change in attitude from the rabbit as pet confined to a hutch at the bottom of the garden to one which is as much a part of the family as a dog or cat.

Why do I want a rabbit?

Some possible answers to this question are:

  • Rabbits are cute and cuddly.
  • Rabbits don’t need much looking after.
  • Rabbits make ideal pets for children.
  • A rabbit will keep our guinea-pig company.
  • Rabbits don’t take up much space.
  • Rabbits are cheap to keep.

If any these answers match the reasons why you want a rabbit then, unfortunately, a rabbit may not be the best pet for you. It may surprise you, but owning a rabbit will demand as much commitment from you as owning a cat or dog.

Reason No. 1: Rabbits are cute and cuddly

Rabbits are very cute, particularly when they are babies. However, many ‘cute’ baby rabbits are bought from pet shops on impulse and their new owners have not considered the reality of owning a rabbit. For example, the average lifespan of a pet rabbit is 7-9 years which represents a big, long-term commitment.

Also, rabbits are not usually cuddly in the way that soft toys are! As ground-dwelling animals, they often feel insecure when picked up, and so do not enjoy being held and cuddled. If the rabbit is not securely held it will struggle and may be dropped. Unfortunately this commonly results in injuries such as fractures to the limbs or spine which can be fatal.

Rabbits do adore being stroked and will allow you to stroke them for hours – providing that they have all four paws on the ground! Owning a rabbit means that you have to learn to interact with your pet in a way that makes it happy. Happy rabbits will respond by licking their owner’s hands. Some rabbits learn to come when their name is called, and can be taught tricks such as begging for treats.

Reason No. 2: Rabbits don't need much looking after

When you own any pet, its needs and requirements must come before your own. It is a common misconception that rabbits don’t need much looking after. Rabbits require at least 3 hours of your time every day:

  • They need to be checked at least twice a day for feed and water.
  • They need access to a run or enclosed garden for exercise for at least 2 hours every day (except in bad weather).
  • They need at least 1 hour of interaction (stroking, play etc.) with you to build up their confidence with humans.

Reason No. 3: Rabbits make ideal pets for children

No animal should be thought of as a ‘toy’ for children. Rabbits are particularly not suitable pets for children because they do not enjoy being picked up and if they are not being held properly (as is often the case when a large rabbit is picked up by a small child) they often scratch or bite. Remember that rabbits can live for 7-9 years and unfortunately children can lose interest or grow out of wanting to look after them.

Guinea-pigs, mice and rats are much more suitable pets for children as they are easier to hold. Rats and mice can also be taught tricks.

Reason No. 4: A rabbit will keep our guinea-pig company

Rabbits and guinea-pigs do not mix! They are very different animals and have different behaviour and requirements:

  • They need very different diets – guinea-pigs need a diet that is very high in Vitamin C and they will develop severe medical problems if fed only a commercial rabbit mix.
  • They have different health problems – rabbits carry a type of bacteria which does not affect them, but which can cause severe respiratory infection (like bronchitis) in guinea-pigs.
  • They behave differently – rabbits can ‘bully’ guinea-pigs!

A rabbit should not be kept on its own as they are social animals and need other rabbits for company. Rabbits live in groups in the wild and it is extremely unnatural for them to live a solitary existence. The best combination for rabbits is a male-female pair, but this will require both rabbits to be neutered as soon as possible to prevent unwanted litters. Same-sex pairs are possible but only if the rabbits were littermates or were introduced at a very early age. If the pair do not bond, both animals may need to be neutered.

Reason No. 5: Rabbits don't take up much space

A rabbit hutch can never be too large. Rabbits need a large hutch – with both a living area and a sleeping area. A combined floor space of 150 x 60 x 60 cm has been suggested for a hutch for two small rabbits. Avoid placing the hutch in a site which is in direct sunlight during the summer or where it will be exposed to draughts.

Rabbits also need to be able to exercise for at least 2 hours per day. This can be either in a large, secure run or ‘ark’ placed over grass, or if your garden is securely enclosed, they could be allowed to run free in it.

Reason No. 6: Rabbits are cheap to keep

Before you can bring your rabbit home, you need to invest in a hutch, a run, a food bowl, a water bottle, sawdust and straw for bedding, and food such as rabbit mix, greens and hay. You may also wish to have your rabbit neutered in the first few months.

On-going costs of keeping your rabbit are feed and veterinary care. Rabbits require at least two vaccinations a year, they are also prone to developing chronic health problems, such as snuffles or dental disease, which can require months of treatment. Pet insurance is available for rabbits to protect against large vet bills and this should be considered.

Housing your rabbit

Posted on August 6, 2018 by - owning a rabbit, rabbits

Whether your rabbit lives indoors or outdoors it needs somewhere to call home. Hutches and runs come in lots of different shapes and sizes. Choosing the right one is important to ensure that you have a happy rabbit.

Hutches

Dimensions

No hutch can be too large. The days when it was thought acceptable to keep rabbits in cramped, confined hutches are over. Two small rabbits should have a minimum hutch size of 150 x 60 x 60 cm, and two large rabbits will need 180 x 90 x 90 cm. Your rabbit needs to have room to lay down lengthways and stand up on its hindfeet.

Partitions

There should be at least two ‘rooms’ in your rabbit’s hutch. The larger one should have a wire-fronted door and this is the area where your rabbit will eat and toilet. The other area should have solid walls and will be more private. Your rabbit will want to sleep here so provide it with lots of straw bedding.

Construction

The hutch should be raised off the floor slightly to allow air to circulate underneath it. The roof of the hutch must be waterproof. You can treat the outside of the hutch with wood preservative or paint to make it waterproof but do not paint or treat the wood on the inside – your rabbit will probably chew this and some chemicals can be harmful if eaten.

The hutch should be strongly built and secure to protect your rabbit from cats, dogs and foxes. Bolts are the best fasteners for the doors – they cannot be opened accidentally and will be safe against other animals.

Traditionally, hutches had wire floors – allowing the droppings to fall through and be cleared away. These are not suitable for pet rabbits as they can cause sore feet.

If you are going to use a second-hand hutch, you must disinfect it well with an ammonia solution (diluted bleach) and let it dry thoroughly before adding the bedding.

Bedding

Lining the floor of the hutch with a layer of newspaper will help to protect the wood from being soaked. Next, add a thick layer of woodshavings – but take care which type you use: some woodshavings, e.g. cedar, may release fumes which can irritate the eyes and respiratory tracts of rabbits. Do not use sawdust as the particles are very small and can easily enter the eyes causing irritation. Finish off with a layer of straw all over the hutch, but add extra straw to the sleeping area so your rabbit can make a bed.

Cleaning out

It is essential to clean the hutch regularly to keep your rabbit in good health. Most rabbits are very ‘clean’ – they will use one corner of their hutch as a toilet. This area should be cleaned out daily – use a dustpan and brush to sweep out the droppings. Then every 7-10 days, the entire bedding in the hutch should be replaced. Move your rabbit to an outdoor run while you do this. Ideally leave the hutch empty of bedding for a couple of hours to allow the wood to dry out.

Rabbits that are kept in unsanitary hutches are likely to develop conditions such as snuffles, sore feet, urine scalding, dirty bottoms, and fly strike (a condition where blow flies lay their eggs on the rabbit and the maggots bury into its skin).

Outside runs or 'arks'

Dimensions

Runs allow your rabbits to freely exercise and graze on grass. Ideally, your rabbit should have 2 hours of exercise in it’s run every day (except in bad weather). There are no recommended dimensions for a run – some people can make a secure, safe run for their rabbit out of the whole of their garden – others prefer a smaller run which is lightweight and can be moved to a fresh piece of lawn every day.

Construction

Runs need to be very secure – your rabbit must not be able to escape and other animals (dogs, cats etc) must not be able to get in. The weight of the run is quite important – it must be too heavy for your rabbit to tip up, or for a dog to nudge over. Wire pegs are a good idea – these will pin the frame to the ground. Some runs have the wire netting extending over the floor of the run – the advantage of this is that your rabbit cannot dig its way out! The disadvantage is that the wire may cause sores on your rabbit’s feet.

Runs are usually constructed with a wooden or metal frame with wire netting placed over this. It is important to provide your rabbit with some shelter in the run so it is protected from sun or rain. A sturdy cardboard or plastic box on its side with some straw inside or a piece of plastic drainpipe will allow your rabbit to shelter and feel secure.

Don’t forget that your rabbit can still get thirsty while it is in the run – remember to add a bowl of water or a drinking bottle.

Muscular dystrophy and other muscular conditions

Posted on August 6, 2018 by - miscellaneous-health-problems-rabbits, rabbits

Generalised muscle weakness in rabbits has numerous causes, many of which are extremely rare or have never been conclusively diagnosed in rabbits, but are important to discuss. By its definition, muscular dystrophy is defined as a degeneration of muscular tissue sometimes caused by faulty nutrition. This has been seen to occur in rabbits as well as other mammals.

What is muscular dystrophy?

Muscular dystrophy is a broad term that is used to describe a group of inherited diseases that are categorised by a progressive weakness and degeneration of the skeletal muscles (paresis). As the disease progresses and the muscle fibres weaken, fibrous and fatty tissues replace them. The disease is caused by a gene mutation that is transmitted genetically from parents to off-spring.

The main cause of muscular dystrophy in rabbits is a serious lack of, or no, vitamin E in the diet, leading to a deficiency. Clinical symptoms include mortality of neonates during the first 3-10 weeks of age, weakness, coma and eventually death.

Can muscular dystrophy be treated?

Currently there is no cure for muscular dystrophy, nor is there any way of slowing the progression of the disease. Medical management may include supportive treatment, pain management, a good diet and respiratory support. Steroids may be of some benefit, but the potential side-effects need to be taken into consideration.

What other muscular conditions can rabbits suffer from?

Floppy rabbit syndrome

Floppy rabbit syndrome (FRS) has been well documented in rabbits but its exact cause has never been truly identified. Rabbits affected with FRS lose all the strength in their limbs, but remain bright and able to eat and drink as long as food is put within reach. Lead poisoning, hypokalaemia (potassium deficiency) and plant toxins have all been cited as potential causes, although no diagnosis based on investigative evidence, has ever been documented.

Often after 2-3 days, with supportive treatment, rabbits seem to spontaneously self-cure of FRS; however some may relapse some weeks, months or years later.

Myasthenia gravis (MG)

An extremely rare autoimmune disease that causes muscle weakness and excessive muscle fatigue. This varies in severity affecting voluntary muscles in the legs, neck, eyes, respiration, etc. Smooth muscles and that of the heart (cardiac muscles) remain unaffected.

Treatment normally consists of anti-cholinesterase medication (pyridostigmine), which prevents the breakdown of acetylcholine and improves the chemical signal at the neuromuscular junction.

Immunosuppression in the form of steroids can also be used to suppress the immune system, however, steroids can have side-effects, so should be used with caution. Due to the side-effects, often additional drugs are used, such as azathioprine or ciclosporin. These also suppress the immune system and allow a lower dose of steroids to be given.

MG is often diagnosed by clinical symptoms and a response to treatment, but can be diagnosed with the Tensilon® test, whereby an injection of edrophonium is given, which results in rapid, but short-lived improvement in the symptoms.

Prognosis is guarded to poor, since the condition cannot be cured and the risk of inhalation pneumonia from choking on food is high. Rabbits diagnosed with MG are normally euthanased.

Hepatic lipidosis

Any length of time without constant throughput of food within the gastrointestinal tract can begin a sequence of events that can prove to be rapidly fatal to the rabbit.

Rabbits who go any length of time without food become hypoglycaemic (low blood glucose), which stimulates the mobilisation of fatty acids from the fat reserves. These are transported to the rabbits liver, which are intended to be used as an energy source. The fat accumulates in the hepatocytes (liver cells), leading to liver failure and death, sometimes within a few hours. Symptoms of hepatic lipidosis can include muscle weakness.

Pregnancy toxaemia

Pregnancy toxaemia is a disease that may affect rabbits during late gestation and is characterised by abnormally low levels of sugar and high levels of ketones in the blood.

Predisposing factors are generally obesity and anorexia. The main clinical signs are generalised weakness and incoordination. The rabbit is generally very quiet and unwilling to move. In severe cases, if not treated as an emergency, it can lead to death.

Treatment consists of administration of glucose solution, fluid therapy and assisted feeding.

Encephalitozoon cuniculi (E. cuniculi)

E. cuniculi has been documented as occurring in up to 50% of rabbits; many of whom carry the parasite asymptomatically and remain healthy throughout life and never suffer from any of the symptoms related to the parasite.

However, symptoms can include paresis, including paralysis of the limbs. Other symptoms may include head tilt, urinary incontinence, rolling, nystagmus (rapid flicking of the eyes), uveitis, fitting or even sudden death.

Treatment is aimed at reducing the inflammation within the brain and kidneys, which the parasite has caused and returning the parasite back to its dormant stage. This is usually achieved with medication such as fenbendazole for at least 28 consecutive days. Sometimes a longer or repeated course is required. Supportive treatment is aimed at maintaining gastrointestinal function, pain relief and the mental and physical wellbeing of the rabbit, until the rabbit is capable of supporting itself.

Despite intensive treatment, sometimes some rabbits do not respond to treatment and require euthanasia to spare them suffering any further.

How can muscular problems be prevented?

Feeding a good diet that is contains adequate amounts of vitamin E is essential; all good quality rabbit foods will contain sufficient amounts of vitamin E.

Rabbits can be blood tested to see if they are positive for E. cuniculi. However, a positive result does not indicate an active infection. It only indicates that the rabbit has, at some point in their life, been exposed to the parasite. A negative result is evidence that the rabbit is clear of E. cuniculi.

Ensure that if your rabbit stops eating, you contact your vet as soon as possible. Hepatic lipidosis and pregnancy toxaemia can begin after only a few hours of anorexia. Obesity should also be addressed and treated.