Category: guinea Pigs

Housing your guinea pig

Posted on August 6, 2018 by vetstream - guinea Pigs, owning a guinea pig

Proper housing plays a major role in the maintenance of healthy guinea pigs. The well-being of the animals must be a primary consideration.

What sort of housing should I provide for my guinea pig?

Guinea pigs can be housed within several different designed enclosures, the most suitable being:

Wooden hutch with a wire front and/or sides with or without a connected run.
An indoor plastic cage.
A custom made house made from a plastic base and metal sides – many guinea pig enthusiasts have these now (see pic above).

Wire mesh floored cages are not suitable to use of guinea pigs due to their delicate feet and can cause bumble foot and injuries to their legs.

The minimum space required for two guinea pigs as advised by the RSPCA is 120 x 60 cm (4 x 2 ft), but more space is ideal. The enclosure can be open at the top, provided the sides are at least 7-8 inches high to prevent escape, but care should be taken to provide safety from other household pets such as cats and dogs. Enclosures that provide solid flooring and an adequate supply of a preferred bedding are best for guinea pigs. They should be easy to clean, well-lit and adequately ventilated. Plastic topped cages are not ideal as they do not provide adequate ventilation and can cause ammonia build up within the enclosure, leading to respiratory problems.

Guinea pigs seem most comfortable when they are spared exposure to excessive noise, needless excitement and other stresses. Sudden movement should also be prevented. Guinea pigs have 2 types of reactions when startled by a loud noise or sudden movement or when placed in a strange environment, they may “freeze” completely motionless (for up to 20 minutes), or they may panic; panic involves erratic running and leaping, often accompanied by shrill squealing. Groups of guinea pigs may stampede in a circle, often trampling the younger residents within the enclosure.

Guinea pigs should never be housed with rabbits, mainly because they both have different dietary requirements, rabbits may injure a guinea pig unintentionally by kicking, a rabbit might bully a guinea pig, and both species communicate in different ways so they won’t necessarily ‘understand’ each other!

If, however, you already have a guinea pig and rabbit living together quite happily, it is best not to separate them as this could cause them both unnecessary stress and cause more problems than if they’re kept together.

Do they need to be housed indoors or outdoors?

The ideal environmental temperature range for a guinea pig is 18-24°C/65-75°F; this must be considered when choosing where to house your guinea pig.

If your guinea pig is going to be housed outdoors, they should be brought inside during the winter months or at the very least moved into a heated shout or outhouse as they do not withstand drops in temperature. Outside hutches should be sheltered from the rain and not in constant direct sunlight to prevent overheating.

What bedding should I use?

Bedding must be clean, non-toxic, absorbent, relatively dust-free and easy to replace.

Wood shavings made from pine or cedar should be avoided as they have been linked to respiratory irritation and skin irritation in some rodent species.

Hay, straw and paper based bedding can be used. Some owners prefer to use vetbed or fleece and/or towels as bedding, but these should be washed on a regular basis.

What should I put in the cage?

Guinea pigs are prey species and should always be provided with somewhere safe to hide away if they feel threatened; ensure they have hides such as igloos, tunnels or log bridges. Guinea pigs also like their creature comforts, and will appreciated either an area of deep hay to sleep on, or fabric beds to curl up in.

Hay can be offered in many ways, but by offering it in a rack this reduces the amount the guinea pig urinates and defecates on it.

Water can be offered in either a bottle dripper or a bowl, or both! Pelleted food can also be offered in a bowl or scattered on the floor.

How often should I clean the cage?

The frequency with which the enclosure is cleaned depends on its design, the materials out of which it is made, and the number of guinea pigs that reside within in.

As a general rule of thumb, the enclosure and all cage “furniture” should be cleaned and disinfected once a week. Food and water containers should be cleaned and disinfected once a day. More than one set of containers should be maintained, and the soiled set should be washed in a dishwasher, if possible.

Vigorous scrubbing of the enclosure and “furniture” with hot water and soap and a thorough rinse should be followed by use of a disinfectant. Vinegar is often required to remove the scale deposited by the crystalline urine of guinea pigs.

Handling your guinea pig

Posted on August 6, 2018 by vetstream - guinea Pigs, owning a guinea pig

Guinea pigs rarely violently struggle when they are being picked up but they sometimes make a “squeal of protest”, which sounds pig-like to many people. Nevertheless, great care should be taken not to injure them when picking them up. Due to the size of their rotund belly, their spines and hindquarters should always be supported when handling.

How should I handle my guinea pig?

To pick up your guinea pig, you should approach it with two hands. Use one hand to stop the guinea pig running forwards, and the other to stop them backing up. Place one hand under the guinea pig’s chest and abdomen, and the other supports its hindquarters and weight. Many guinea pigs like to be propped up against your chest for security and comfort.

Very young children should not be allowed to pick up or carry a guinea pig; they may squeeze them too tightly or accidentally drop them with upsetting consequences.

One of the most desirable features of guinea pigs as pets is that they rarely bite when being handled or restrained. One reference indicates that only 1 in 400 will bite under these circumstances.

When placing your guinea pig back on the ground or in its cage, make sure you have a secure hold of it; hold it close to the floor firmly and securely before letting go to ensure it doesn’t jump or fall from a height.

How do I stop my guinea pig from wriggling?

Guinea pigs that aren’t used to being handled can be wriggly and have a tendency to jump away from you if they are nervous.

The best way of handling a wriggler is to maintain a firm and secure hold of them (without squeezing them too tight) until they stop wriggling. Some guinea pigs will enjoy being wrapped lightly into a towel or blanket and this will calm them down and make them feel secure to stop wriggling.

When it stops wriggling, place the guinea pig on the floor (or in its cage) without letting go; generally the guinea pig will feel much more secure when it feels something under its feet. When the guinea pig feels relaxed, gently let it go. Your guinea pig should soon get used to being handled if you handle them regularly and hopefully won’t be so wriggly!

What if my guinea pig is pregnant?

Ideally pregnant guinea pigs should not be handled unless necessary.

If you need to take your guinea pig to the vet, try using a pet carrier or box that you can encourage your guinea pig to walk into by itself. Placing some of its favourite food in the carrier usually does the trick.

How do I hold my guinea pig for injections?

To hold a guinea pig for injections gently encircle their forelimbs and neck with one hand and use your other hand to support the hindlimbs from moving backwards. Your vet will then be able to give your guinea pig an injection in the midsection. Many guinea pigs don’t like injections and will protest vocally!

Guinea pigs: a history

Posted on August 6, 2018 by vetstream - guinea Pigs, owning a guinea pig

Guinea pigs are hystricomorph rodents (related to chinchillas and porcupines) that originated from the Andes Mountains region of South America. Traditionally, guinea pigs were used for ceremonial meals by indigenous people in the Andean highlands, and it continues to be a major part of the diet in Peru.

The history

Guinea pigs were probably first domesticated by the Indians of Peru, who used them for food and as sacrificial offerings to their gods. In the 16th century Dutch explorers introduced guinea pigs to Europe, and selective breeding and captive rearing began in earnest; they were popular among the wealthy.

Guinea pigs are very popular pets because of their availability, docile temperaments, tendency not to bite or scratch when handled, and relatively clean habits.

In their natural habitat, guinea pigs live in open, grassy areas. They seek shelter in naturally protected areas or burrows deserted by other animals. Guinea pigs are sociable animals and tend to live in groups, called herds, of around 10-15.

They are strictly herbivorous (plant-eating) and do most of their foraging for grasses, roots, fruits and seeds in the late afternoon and early evening.

For many years guinea pigs have been used in biomedical research laboratories.

Are guinea pigs rodents?

Yes! Guinea pigs are a species of rodent belonging to the family Caviidae and the genus Cavia. They are not in the pig family (Suidae):

Class: Mammalia.
Order: Rodentia.
Family: Caviidae.
Subfamily: Caviinae.
Genus: Cavia.
Species: porcellus.
Scientific name: Cavia porcellus.

What are a guinea pig's vital statistics?

Life span: 6-7 years.
Average bodyweight:
- Male: 1-1.3 kg.
- Female: 0.8-1.1 kg.
Ideal environmental temperature range: 18-24°C/65-75°F.
Ideal relative humidity range: 40-70% (50% is considered ideal).
Recommended age at 1st breeding:
- Male: 3-4 months.
- Female: <3-7 months (not after 7 months).
Length of oestrous: (heat cycle) 16 days.
Length of oestrus (period which female is receptive to male for copulation): 8 hours.
Gestation (pregnancy period): average 63-72 days.
Average litter size: 3-4 pups (ranges 1-6).
Age at weaning: 3 weeks.
Through selective breeding efforts, guinea pigs are found in an array of colours and coat types from which to choose. The main varieties of hair type which are commonly encountered in the pet and breeding industry which all come in different colours are:
- Shorthaired (smooth coated) – short, smooth coated across their bodies
- Crested – shorthairs but have a single crest on the top of the head
- Abyssinians – these have rosettes (or whorls) of hair across the body
- Ridgeback – these have a single ridge of crested fur running along their backs
- Peruvian – like longhaired Abyssinians
- Sheltie (also known as Silky) – longhair smooth coated
- Coronet – longhaired crested coats
- Rex – rough coarse and dense coat with curly whiskers
- Teddy – rough coarse and dense coat with straight whiskers
- Texel – longhaired rex breed
- Merino – longhaired rex with a crested head
- Lunkarya – longhaired cross between a Rex and Peruvian
- Skinny – completely hairless

Pneumonia

Posted on August 6, 2018 by vetstream - guinea Pigs, miscellaneous-health-problems-guinea-pigs

Pneumonia is one of the most common bacterial diseases of pet guinea pigs. A number of potential disease-causing bacteria may inhabit the respiratory tracts of otherwise normal guinea pigs.

How will I know if my guinea pig has pneumonia?

Stress, inadequate diet, and improper home care often predispose a pet guinea pig to respiratory infection, although many well looked after guinea pigs can develop pneumonia.

Signs of pneumonia may include laboured or rapid breathing, discharge from eyes and nostrils, lethargy and inappetence. Some animals show no signs at all before dying suddenly.

Middle and inner ear infections occasionally result from respiratory disease in guinea pigs. Additional signs may include incoordination, tilting of the head, circling to one side, and rolling.

A bacteria called Bordetella which is often carried by rabbits (without showing any respiratory signs) can often cause fatal pneumonia in guinea pigs.

How will my vet diagnose pneumonia in my guinea pig?

Diagnosis of pneumonia is usually done by taking an x-ray or CT scan of your guinea pigs chest to look at the lungs. Infection causes changes in the lungs, which can be seen on this type of imaging. Your vet may take a deep nasal swap to culture the bacteria if it is affecting the upper airway too to identify the cause of the infection and select an appropriate antibiotic to treat it.

Can my guinea pig be treated?

You should consult your vet if you think your guinea pig has this serious bacterial infection. Aggressive antibiotic therapy by injection and appropriate supportive care, including oxygen are sometime necessary. Bacterial culture and antibiotic sensitivity testing help your vet select an appropriate antibiotic.

Often, guinea pigs will require a long course of antibiotics which you will need to give at home for several weeks. Nebulising is useful in some cases; this involves the use of a drug delivery device (inhaler) used to administer medication in the form of a mist inhaled into the lungs.

Unfortunately, even though the signs of infection can be relieved, the causative bacteria cannot always be eliminated. Some guinea pigs unfortunately have long-term scarring in their lungs and will be more prone to picking up an infection again in the future.

Miscellaneous health problems in guinea pigs

Posted on July 30, 2018 by vetstream - guinea Pigs, miscellaneous-health-problems-guinea-pigs

Two medical conditions of guinea pigs that demand special mentions are dental disease (teeth malocclusion) and pneumonia, therefore these are covered in separate factsheets. However, there are other medical conditions that affect guinea pigs that are briefly covered here. There are many new emerging diseases seen in guinea pigs so this list is not exhaustive and covers the most commonly seen diseases.

Do guinea pigs suffer from skin/hair problems?

Thinning of the hair is common and can have many causes in guinea pigs including:

Barbering – excessive chewing of hair by cage mates
Hormonal changes such as guinea pigs suffering from cystic ovarian disease and thyroid problems
Parasites can cause excessive itching and chewing leading to hair thinning
Ringworm is a skin disease caused by a fungus similar to the one that causes athlete’s foot in people. Those most susceptible to ringworm are guinea pigs who are young or stressed or in overcrowded situations. It is generally characterised by patchy hair loss on the face, nose and ears. The skin in these areas may appear flaky, and areas of hair loss may extend along the top side of the trunk. Ringworm can be diagnosed by your vet and they will prescribe topical and/or oral medication. The medications used will depend on the number of ringworm areas present and their distribution on the body. Ringworm can be transmitted from guinea pigs to people and other household pets such as cats/dogs. It is, therefore, important to limit or restrict handling of infected guinea pigs, especially by young children or those who are pregnant or immunosuppressed, until their disease has been successfully treated. If handling is necessary, the handler should thoroughly wash their hands afterwards or wear gloves for handling.

Do guinea pigs get abscesses?

Yes, guinea pigs can develop abscesses anywhere on their body but most commonly around the mouth/jaw or the skin, abscesses are pockets of infection which have been walled off from the body.

The two main causes of abscesses in guinea pigs are:

Bites from companions or trauma causing an infection to break into the skin and develop an abscess
Dental disease – in severe cases of dental disease abscesses can develop in the roots of the teeth or surrounding lymph nodes

Diagnosis of abscesses often are by a vet being able to feel the swelling, in some cases such as dental abscesses then an x-ray or in some cases a CT scan may be necessary to identify where the infection has originated from.

Treatment of abscesses is surgical removal of the entire capsule where possible. In cases where the infection is associated with the teeth or jaw then sometimes marsupialization (surgically opening up an abscess and stitching it open) is needed, this requires a long period of time (often weeks) of flushing out the area to remove the infection.

What about cystic ovaries in females?

Cysts can form on the ovaries of female guinea pigs as they naturally go through their reproductive cycle, even if they have had a litter than can develop cysts. Many studies show that up to 75% of females after 3 months can develop cystic ovaries, they are often not picked up until later in life as they get bigger in size or cause hormonal problems.

The signs of cystic ovarian disease include hair loss over the flanks (sides), crusting of nipples and sometimes more aggressive behaviour towards companions although some guinea pigs show no clinical signs. Diagnosis of cystic ovaries usually involved your vet scanning (ultrasound imaging) your guinea pigs abdomen to confirm the presence of cysts. Many vets are able to palpate (feel) the cysts in the abdomen if they are large.

Treatment involves spaying your guinea pig and removing the ovaries and uterus. The only prevention of cystic ovarian disease is neutering at an early age, this is not normally a routine procedure for many vets and often only exotic or small mammal specialists will undertake this procedure.

Can guinea pigs get bladder stones?

Yes! Bladder stones (uroliths) are relatively common in guinea pigs and tend to affect males more than females but both sexes are effected. The signs of bladder stones include squeaking when urinating, red urine or reduced urine, if you see any of these signs then you should visit your vet.

The stones are small deposits of calcium that is excreted into their urinary tract as a normal bodily function. The stones can be trapped anywhere within the urinary system from the kidneys, ureters (tube connecting kidney to bladder), bladder, or urethra (tube connecting bladder to external genitals). Stones cannot be dissolved by diet change and will often require surgery to remove them.

The exact cause of why some guinea pigs are effected is not truly known, although there may be some link to genetics and diet. To help prevent your guinea pig developing stones it is recommended to wet down any vegetables offered and encouraging drinking, this will dilute the urine down, you can also reduce the amount of high calcium foods offered which include alfalfa hay, kale, spinach, parsley, basil and cabbage.

Can guinea pigs get heat stroke?

Guinea pigs are susceptible to heat stroke, particularly those that are overweight and/or long-haired breeds. Environmental temperatures above 29.5°C/85°F, high humidity (above 70%), inadequate shade and ventilation, crowding and stress are additional predisposing factors.

Signs of heat stroke include panting, slobbering, weakness, refusal to move, delirium, collapse, convulsions and eventually death. Heat stroke is treatable if recognised relatively early. Heat-stressed guinea pigs should be immediately sprayed in cold water or bathed in tepid water, do not use cold water to bathe as this may be cause your guinea pig to go into shock. If you think your guinea pig has heat stroke, a vet should be contacted immediately.

Prevention of heat stroke involves providing adequate shade from the sun and adequate ventilation. A continuous light mist or spray of water and/or a fan operating over a container of ice can be directed at a guinea pig within its enclosure to lower the air temperature. Some owners like to use bottles of frozen water within the enclosure to give something cool for them to lay against if they are becoming too hot. Never put ice in your guinea pigs water bottles/bowls as this could cause problems with their stomach.

What about cancer?

Cancer is a relatively uncommon problem in guinea pigs, but they can develop it. As with most animals, it is most likely to affect older guinea pigs.

Most tumours are benign, but should ideally be sent away to a laboratory for analysis to confirm this. Cancer in guinea pigs may also affect the reproductive tract, mammary glands (breasts), thyroid, lymph nodes (lymphoma) and blood (leukaemia).

Sensitivity to antibiotics

Posted on July 30, 2018 by vetstream - gastrointestinal conditions, guinea Pigs

Guinea pigs as a group are unusually sensitive to certain antibiotics, whether they are given orally or by injection. Potentially harmful antibiotics include ampicillin, penicillin, bacitracin, erythromycin, lincomycin, gentamicin, clindamycin, streptomycin, vancomycin and sometimes tetracycline. Interestingly, even certain antibiotics used topically may produce lethal effects.

Why are guinea pigs so sensitive to antibiotics?

The major way in which certain antibiotics cause reactions is by altering the normal microbial balance within the gastrointestinal tract. Once the normal intestinal microfloral balance has been upset, certain bacteria multiply to abnormally large numbers. The multiplying bacteria produce harmful chemicals and gases that can have lethal effects.

Certain antibiotics are directly toxic and do not alter the microbial balance within the gastrointestinal tract. These antibiotics should never be used in guinea pigs. Though injectable antibiotics can cause the problems described above, oral antibiotics are more often associated with them.

What happens if my guinea pig needs antibiotics?

Antibiotics should never be given to guinea pigs unless they are prescribed by your vet.

The antibiotics your vet prescribes will be based on what is best for the type of infection they are treating. Many antibitotics are not licensed for use in guinea pigs (this is common in most species which are not cats or dogs) so you may be asked to sign an off-licence consent form.

Some owners and vets like to provide the guinea pig with probiotics during a course of antibiotics to help replace any damaged gut flora.

Parasitic skin diseases

Posted on June 25, 2018 by vetstream - guinea Pigs, skin-disease-guinea-pigs

Lice and mites are the most common external parasites of guinea pigs. Lice are tiny, wingless, flattened insects that live within the hair coat; both the adults and their eggs are found attached to individual hairs. A mite similar to the scabies mite of people causes serious infestations in pet guinea pig.

How will I know if my guinea pig has lice?

Two types of biting lice may affect guinea pigs. Both scratch the skin surface and feed off of body fluids that exude through the very superficial wounds they create.

Light infestations usually go unnoticed, but heavy infestations are usually accompanied with excessive itching, scratching and some hair loss, and scabs may also be evident on and around the ears. Your vet can confirm the diagnosis by direct examination of the hair coat.

Direct examination is usually all that is necessary, though use of a microscope is very helpful. Your vet will usually prescribe a spot on treatment, injections or a shampoo.

Lice can be transmitted by direct and intimate contact between infested and uninfected guinea pig. Therefore, pet guinea pigs are very unlikely to harbour these parasites unless they are recent acquisitions that were previously in contact with louse-infested guinea pigs.

Being placed in close contact with new infested guinea pigs could also infest established pet guinea pigs. Guinea pig lice do not parasitism people.

How will I know if my guinea pig has mites?

A mite similar to the scabies mite of people causes serious infestations in guinea pig. Mites are microscopic, spider-like organisms that live within the outer layers of the skin. They usually cause intense scratching and significant hair loss. Some cases without scratching have been reported. Some guinea pigs become very lethargic due to an infestation and will scratch until they cause open sores on their bodies. In severe cases, guinea pigs may run wildly or in circles, and occasionally even have convulsions.

How will my vet diagnose lice or mites?

Lice will probably be visible to the naked eye, but if your vet is unsure, they will examine your guinea pig using a hand lens or microscope to help visualise the lice. Your vet may also use some sticky tape to take a sample of hair to examine further under a microscope in the lab.

If mites are suspected, your vet will take a number of skin scrapings which they will examine under a microscope in the lab to confirm the diagnosis.

How can lice or mites be treated?

Successful treatment consists of 1-4 injections of an antiparasitic drug 10-14 days apart.

All housing should be disinfected and if your guinea pig travels on hay it is advisable to discard the hay and purchase a new or different supply.

Breeding from your guinea pig

Posted on June 25, 2018 by vetstream - guinea Pigs, owning a guinea pig

The single most important breeding consideration is that female guinea pigs should be first bred before 7 months of age. If the first breeding is delayed beyond this time, serious (sometimes life-threatening) problems with delivery are encountered. Females should be first bred between 3 and 7 months of age, and males should be 34 months old at their first breeding.

Are guinea pigs easy to breed?

The guinea pig’s heat cycle lasts 16 days. The period during which the female is receptive to the male and will allow breeding lasts about 8 hours. Female guinea pigs can come back into heat 15 hours after giving birth. This is called a “postpartum oestrus,” which means that they can be nursing a litter and pregnant at the same time!

Pregnancy lasts an average of 63 days. The larger the litter, the shorter the term of pregnancy and vice versa. The duration of pregnancy for guinea pigs is unusually long when compared with that of other rodents.

How will I know if my guinea pig is pregnant?

Pregnant sows (females) exhibit a grossly enlarged abdomen during the latter stages of pregnancy. It is not uncommon for their body weight to double during pregnancy.

The time of delivery may be difficult to determine because of the relatively long gestation period and because pregnant sows do not build nests. However, the week before a sow is about to deliver a litter, a slowly widening separation of the pelvis develops just in front of the external genitalia. This separation reaches slightly more than 1 inch in the hours just before delivery.

This separation of the pelvis does not develop in females that are bred for the first time after 7 months of age, creating an impossible and tragic situation. Delivery of the young is not possible and a caesarean section must usually be performed to save the life of the sow and her babies. An uncomplicated delivery usually requires about 1/2 hour, with an average of 5 minutes between delivery of each baby.

How many babies to guinea pigs have?

Litter sizes range from 1-6 young, with an average of 3. Abortions and stillbirths are common with guinea pigs throughout their breeding lives.

The young are born mature. They are unusually large and fully furred, and can walk about. They also have teeth and open eyes at this time. Even though newborn guinea pigs can eat solid food and drink water from a container, they should be allowed to nurse their mother for at least 2 weeks, at the 3 week mark males should be separated off.

Do guinea pigs have any reproductive problems?

Female guinea pigs intended for breeding must be first bred before 7 months of age. If the first breeding is delayed beyond this time, serious (sometimes life-threatening) problems with delivery are encountered. A portion of the pregnant sow’s pelvis must widen for successful delivery of her young.

This separation fails to develop in females bred for the first time after 7 months of age, usually necessitating a caesarean section to deliver the young and save the sow’s life. Signs of dystocia include straining and uterine bleeding. You should seek veterinary help immediately if you notice any of these signs.

Your vet will evaluate the pregnant sow by direct exam and by taking x-rays. If a vaginal delivery of the young is not possible, a caesarean section will be necessary.

Pregnancy toxaemia is a serious condition that usually occurs in overweight sows in their first or second pregnancy. Signs are most likely to be noted over 1-5 days during the last 2 weeks of pregnancy or the first week following birth. These include poor appetite, depression, weakness, reluctance to move, incoordination, difficulty breathing, coma and death. Some afflicted sows may show no signs, and then suddenly die.

There is no single cause for this condition, but stress and obesity are major predisposing factors. Others include advancing age, lack of exercise, fasting just before the onset of signs, and a large number of developing fetuses. The fundamental underlying problem appears to be inadequate blood flow to the pregnant uterus. Sows showing any of these signs must be seen immediately by your vet. Because treatment is often unsuccessful, prevention of pregnancy toxaemia is of paramount importance. Pregnant sows should not be allowed to become obese. Fasting and stress must be avoided, especially in the last few weeks of pregnancy. Pregnant sows must also be supplied with fresh water at all times and fed a nutritious diet.

What special changes do I need to make if my guinea pig is pregnant?

It is important to follow the following guidelines:

Males should be removed well before birth happens to avoid back to back pregnancies.
House pregnant sows indoors or at least in a sheltered shed or outhouse, especially in winter months.
Pregnant sows should be supplemented with calcium and vitamin C for their growing pups.
Pelleted/muesli diets should not be overfed, as this can cause large babies which they may struggle to pass, although do not attempt to diet overweight guinea pigs at this time as this can lead to a fatal condition called pregnancy toxaemia.
Alfalfa hay should be supplemented throughout pregnancy, along with unlimited amounts of normal hay and they should always be fed a selection of fruit/veg daily.

Sensitivity to antibiotics

Posted on June 25, 2018 by vetstream - gastrointestinal-conditions-guinea-pigs, guinea Pigs

Why are guinea pigs so sensitive to antibiotics?

What happens if my guinea pig needs antibiotics?

Antibiotics should never be given to guinea pigs unless they are prescribed by your vet.

Some owners and vets like to provide the guinea pig with probiotics during a course of antibiotics to help replace any damaged gut flora.

Dental disease

Posted on June 25, 2018 by vetstream - dental-disease-guinea-pigs, guinea Pigs

Malocclusion of the teeth (also known as slobbers) is a common problem in guinea pigs who are not fed the correct diet or who have jaw joint problems or trauma to the face. In guinea pigs, their front incisors and back molar teeth grow constantly, so if they are not worn down correctly (by constantly eating hay) then they can become overgrown. When the teeth become excessively long and not worn, then the back teeth can bridge over the tongue leading to the inability to swallow any food at all.

How will I know if my guinea pig's teeth are overgrown?

Many guinea pigs will continue to have a good appetite despite having overgrown teeth, but may be unable to hold food in their mouths and may drop it soon after picking it up; some guinea pigs may just eat their food more slowly than their cage mates.

You might also notice excessive drooling and some may show signs of weight loss.

In extreme cases you will visibly see that the front incisor teeth are wearing at an angle or they may be protruding from the mouth if they are excessively long.

If you suspect your guinea pig is suffering from dental disease then you should consult your vet who can perform a visual examination of the front and back teeth.

Can my guinea pig be treated?

Correction of dental problems such as overgrown teeth involves a general anaesthesia for burring of the teeth with a small mechanical burr. They need to be anesthetised as it is too stressful and dangerous to use a burr on a conscious patient.

In minor cases, sometimes a little burring can bring the teeth back into alignment and they need no more intervention; in more severe and advanced cases, your guinea pig may require regular visits to the vet for teeth burring for the rest of its life.

How can I prevent my guinea pig from getting dental problems?

Ensure your guinea pig is given an unlimited supply of hay and/or grass so that they can wear their teeth down naturally.
Try not to feed muesli diets as these have been linked to dental problems.
Try not to overfeed pelleted food.