Category: emergencies-cat

Almost all cases of poisoning are accidental so the best way to prevent poisoning is to ensure that all poisons are kept out of sight and reach of your pets (and children):

• Dispose of unwanted medicines safely.
• Read the product label and follow the instructions for correct use.
• Ensure lids are replaced correctly to prevent spillage if the container is knocked over.
• Clean up drips and spills promptly.
• Dispose of empty containers and waste food safely.
• Put pest control products in pet-proof containers before putting them out.

Younger animals are more likely to be affected as often chew strange objects. Cats are less likely to be poisoned than dogs as they are naturally more suspicious of novel substances. Cats may be poisoned by licking off substances spilt on, or applied to, their coat.

In many cases of poisoning the owners are aware that their pet has eaten, or been in contact with, something unusual before signs of illness develop. You should be worried that your pet might have been poisoned if they suddenly develop severe clinical signs, or if they become ill with breathing difficulties, seizures or severe vomiting and diarrhoea.

Every poison produces different effects and a poisoned pet may show a number of signs such as:

• Restlessness or drowsiness
• Vomiting or diarrhoea
• Salivation or drooling from the mouth
• Breathing difficulties
• Muscle tremors, twitching or seizures
• Confusion, changes in behaviour or an abnormal reaction to sound or light
• Hallucinations
• Wobbly gait (ataxia)
• Changes in gum colour to blue, pale or even very red
• Unusual odours or smells (either on the breath or from contamination on the skin)
• Bite marks – poison can result from a bite or a sting
• Burns to the mouth or the tongue
• Irritation or inflammation of the skin
• Foreign material passed in the stools

A rapid response is critical in cases of poisoning. If you suspect that your cat may have been poisoned:

• Protect your pet and remove it from the source of the intoxication
• If you can do so safely, remove any suspect material from the pet’s mouth
• Don’t let other people handle your pet (disorientated or frightened animals may become aggressive and other people may be contaminated with the poison)
• Allow your dog to drink water, which may dilute ingested poisons
• Contact your vet for further advice and be prepared to take your pet and the suspect material or product to the hospital

The sooner a poisoned animal receives treatment, the higher its chances of recovery. If you think that your pet has been poisoned then contact your veterinary emergency service immediately; your pet’s life may well depend on it. It is always better to phone in advance to warn the surgery that you are on your way. This will give them time to prepare everything they need and for you to check that there is someone available at the surgery to help you.

In most cases the best course of action is to get your pet to the veterinary surgery as soon as possible. However, in some cases you may be advised to give some immediate first-aid treatment at home. If your pet is already showing signs of poisoning do not attempt to make it vomit or drink anything but seek immediate veterinary care.

If your pet has a toxic substance on its skin or coat the worst of the contamination may be washed off to reduce further absorption. Protective clothing must be worn and only water should be used. Make sure you do not get contaminated in the process.

If a poison has been eaten in the last 2 hours it may be possible to remove it from the stomach by making the animal vomit. If your pet has swallowed a corrosive or petroleum-based substance, e.g. some solvent-based paints, some toilet cleaners, some drain cleaners, petrol, turpentine substitute (white spirit) do not induce vomiting (as this may cause further damage to the throat if the substance is brought up). Instead wash the mouth and face with water and give milk or water to drink (within 10 minutes of your pet swallowing the substance).

It is only safe to make your pet vomit if it:

• Is conscious
• Is alert or only mildly depressed
• Has an intact gag reflex, ie gags when you place your fingers at the back of its throat
• Is known not to have ingested corrosive (caustic) or petroleum-based substance

Never induce vomiting if your pet:

• Has already been sick
• Is unconscious, very sleepy or depressed
• Has eaten a corrosive (acidic or alkaline) product (highly corrosive products can do more damage if vomited up)
• Has eaten a petroleum-based product (volatile products can do more damage if vomited up)

Do not try to make your cat vomit (unless specifically instructed to do so by your vet), particularly if the agent or timing of exposure is uncertain. If you are able to make your cat vomit or it has already vomited, collect a sample and take it to your vet in case it is required for identification of possible intoxicant.

Never give salt water to make your cat vomit; this is potentially very dangerous and can cause salt poisoning. Washing soda can be used on the advice of your vet – give as big a piece as you can get down the animal’s throat. Place the crystal over the back of your pet’s tongue so that it is swallowed. Your pet should vomit within 5 minutes – if not you can repeat this once. If your pet will not be sick do not keep giving further doses as soda crystals can themselves be poisonous.

Note: It is essential to use washing soda (soda crystals) and not caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) as this is very corrosive and will cause serious injury.

If you have any doubts – do not make your cat vomit.

On arrival at the veterinary surgery someone will assess your cat immediately and make sure that its condition is stable before any other treatments are instigated. Your vet will want to know:

• If your pet has known access to possible poisons
• If so, what poison – is a sample or container available?
• When your pet had access to the poison – how long ago?
• How much was eaten or drunk – how much is missing from the container?
• Has your pet shown any signs of being unwell?
• If your pet is receiving any medication or has any pre-existing medical conditions?

If you are able to take a sample of the poison or any packaging associated with it then this may help your vet to provide the best care for your pet.

One of the most common causes of accidental poisoning in dogs is owners giving human medication to their pet for pain relief. Never give medication to your pet unless instructed to do so by your vet.

Ibuprofen

Although this painkiller can be bought in any chemist for humans it is extremely toxic to cats. Just one tablet can cause stomach ulceration, liver damage, kidney failure and death. It is one of the most common causes of poisoning in cats.

Paracetamol

Cats cannot break down paracetamol safely and toxins quickly build up to dangerous levels. Cats are particularly susceptible to paracetamol poisoning – as little as half a 500mg tablet can kill an adult cat.

Slug pellets

The most common active ingredient in slug pellets is metaldehyde. The poison causes excitement and seizures followed by depression and collapse. Avoid the use of chemicals in the garden if you have pets or confine your pets indoors or fence off treated areas.

Rat poison

Many rat poisons contain anticoagulants (such as difenacoum or bromadialone). Cats are most likely to be poisoned by eating a rodent already poisoned. Animals remain well for several days after eating the bait as the poison takes effect. Repeated small doses are more toxic than a single large dose. Signs include depression, weakness, breathing problems, and prolonged bleeding from any minor wounds or abrasions. Poisoned animals can bleed to death without treatment.

Cannabis

Cannabis rarely causes serious side-effects. Most affected animals become excited and may salivate a lot. Sometimes affected pets will seem disorientated and may hallucinate – just as in people, appetite may be increased.

Food stuffs (Raisins, Onions and Chocolate)

Pets can be poisoned by human foodstuffs and these poisonings can be fatal. Raisins (and sultanas, currants and grapes) cause damage to the kidneys, chocolate poisoning affects the brain and the heart, and onion poisoning can cause anaemia. In animals which are susceptible to these poisonings even a small amount (a piece of fruit cake, a few squares of dark chocolate) can have serious effects.

Adder bites

The only native venomous snake in the UK is the European Adder. Snake bites are most common in late spring and summer when the snakes are active. Cats can become unwell very quickly after an adder bite with pain and progressive local swelling. Treatment often includes administration of antivenom.

Permethrin flea treatment (Bob Martin) for dogs

Many flea treatments for dogs contain permethrin. Cats are usually poisoned when their owner treats them with the dog formulation by mistake or when a cat comes into contact with a treated dog. Affected cats become excited and may develop seizures. Without supportive care these cats can die but can recover if treatment is begun quickly enough. Recovery can take several days.

Lilies

Plant poisonings are more common in cats than in dogs. In particular, indoor cats will often nibble at house plants. Lilies (including Easter lilies, stargazer lilies, tiger lilies, oriental lilies and day lilies) seem to be particularly attractive to cats. Unfortunately even a little of this plant is extremely toxic to the kidneys. Prompt treatment is essential in all cases of lily exposure.

Anti-freeze (ethylene glycol)

Antifreeze is palatable to cats. The initial signs are very non-specific (vomiting, wobbliness/weakness, thirst) and are easily missed, particularly in cats. These are followed by kidney failure, seizures and coma. Treatment with an antidote may be possible but only if started very soon after ingestion. Most cases of ethylene glycol poisoning in cats have a poor outcome.

Toad poisoning

In the UK the common toad is relatively harmless but all toads have glands in their skin which secrete unpleasant substances. Animals that have put toads in their mouth show excessive salivation and may paw at their mouth. Usually the signs resolve without treatment (pets may appreciate having their mouth washed out with a hose). In more severe poisonings signs include weakness, limb swelling and seizures.

The most important thing is to stay calm. Remember that your cat is not in pain or distressed during the seizure itself. The seizure is likely to be more distressing for you than your pet. Ensure your cat is in a safe place, i.e. not at the top of a flight of stairs and then do not intervene further or you may get hurt.

It is a good idea to have a plan that you can enact every time your pet has a seizure. If everyone in the family knows what to do in advance they will be less alarmed when a seizure starts. Print out the seizure plan and pin it in a prominent place in the house so everyone can access it in an emergency.

During the seizure keep notes as these may be helpful to your vet later on – write down the time the seizure started and finished and what your pet did during the seizure.

If your cat stops seizuring within 5 minutes allow them time to recover quietly. Immediately following the seizure your pet may show some strange behaviours and may be abnormal for minutes to hours after. If this is the first seizure your cat has had you should contact your vet and let them know. Your vet may ask you to bring your cat into the next routine appointment for a check and some routine blood tests. It is far better for your cat to recover quietly at home rather than be bundled into the car and carted off to the vet right away.

If your cat continues to have an active seizure as described above for more than 5 minutes or fails to recover fully before another seizure starts, or has repeated seizures within hours of one another, then you should contact your vet immediately.

Your vet will give some advice over the phone. If your cat has a history of seizures your vet may have given you medication to keep at home for emergency use. Some drugs (diazepam or valium) can be given per rectum or nasally (i.e. up the nose) and this can be given during a prolonged fit and/or after individual seizures if the cat is predisposed to severe clusters. If you have to give medication by mouth wait until your cat is fully recovered and never try to put tablets in your cat’s mouth while it is still dazed. Your cat may not be sufficiently aware to swallow properly and you may get bitten.

If your cat has more than 3 seizures in a day you should contact your vet for further advice.

If your cat is still having an active seizure after 5 minutes your vet will probably want to see it straight away. Always call your vet’s practice before driving there to be sure that there is someone on hand who can help your pet.

Immediately after a seizure your cat may be very confused and could show strange behaviour such as aimless pacing, wobbliness or a desire to eat and drink excessively. You must be very careful during this time as they can become aggressive.

Most of the time epileptic cats recover perfectly well after a seizure. A very small number of cats die as the result of an injury that has happened because of a seizure. In some cases, cats do die during a seizure without any obvious explanation. Sudden unexplained death in epilespy (SUDEP) also occurs rarely in people affecting 1 in 1000 epileptics. Non-one knows how rare this is in cats.

These directions will help you manage your pet in a safe way during and after a seizure.

Before Seizure

1. Write your vets contact number here so you have it to hand

• Vets contact details………………………………………….
• Emergency contact number………………………………..

2. Know where emergency drugs are stored.
3. Instruct all adult members of household how to administer these drugs correctly.

During Seizure

1. Ensure your cat is in a safe place and if necessary move them away from hazards such as the top of stairs.
2. Ensure that any other household pets are shut up away from the seizuring cat. Other animals can become distressed seeing a companion having seizures and may get hurt if they go to investigate. In some cases cats will attack a seizuring companion.
3. Write down start and finish time of seizure. If seizure lasts more than 5 minutes call your vet for advice.

After Seizure

1. Keep other household pets locked away from seizuring cat until it is fully recovered.
2. Keep human contact to a minimum until pet is recovered.
2. Immediately after seizure cats may be hungry, thirsty or need to go out to toilet.
3. Allow animal to fully recover in a quiet peaceful environment but you should expect that your cat may be restless or agitated and may move around a lot so it is important that you provide a safe environment for this.

Body temperature is kept constant even when the cat is exposed to wide changes in environmental temperature. Any change in body temperature is detected by specialised receptors (thermoreceptors) that send signals to the body organs that are able to lose or generate heat.

If the body temperature goes up, blood flow through the skin increases so that heat is lost from blood flowing near the surface of the cat. In hot conditions the dog will seek out a cool place to lie.

When the environment is cold shivering occurs (because muscle activity increases heat production), cats curl up in a ball and their hair coat becomes erect to trap warm air against the skin.

Since body temperature is so closely controlled in the normal cat a fever is an indicator that something is wrong. In some diseases short fever ‘spikes’ occur (where the temperature is suddenly raised for a short period of time only to drop to normal and then rise again later). In other diseases persistent fever occurs and the temperature is always above normal.

A cat with a fever is usually depressed and may not want to eat but short-term moderate fever does not do any permanent damage to the body. If the fever gets very high (above 41ºC / 105.8°F) body tissues can be damaged and it is important to try to bring the body temperature down. Soaking the coat with cool water and using fans may help but veterinary advice must be sought immediately.

Fortunately it is very rare for body temperature to rise this high and such high temperatures are more often the result of heat stroke or serious seizures (fits) than infections.

Fever is caused by the action of ‘pyrogens’ – substances which change the level at which the body temperature is maintained. Once the ‘normal’ body temperature has been reset, the animal now tries to keep body temperature at a higher level. Pyrogens include bacteria, viruses, toxins, some drugs and natural substances released by the body in response to inflammation.

In many cases a moderate fever can be a good thing. Bacteria may not grow so quickly at higher temperature and so raising body temperature gives the cat a better chance of dealing with the infection. It is not always wise to suppress a fever without trying to find out what has caused it, and it is always better to try to treat the underlying cause if possible.

If you suspect that your cat has a fever you can check their temperature to be sure. Digital thermometers are easy to use and fairly reliable but cats often resent having their temperature taken. If your cat is very quiet they may let you take their temperature – if not you should ask your vet to do this for you.

If your cat’s temperature is high check it again a few hours later (if the temperature rises above 40ºC / 104°F or is persistently higher than normal contact your vet).

Occasionally a falsely low temperature reading is recorded if the thermometer is accidentally inserted into faeces in the rectum – if you think this might have happened check the temperature again after your cat has just passed a motion.

• Turn on the thermometer (usually by pressing the button on the side).
• Dip the end of the thermometer into vasoline or similar lubricant.
• Lift your cat’s tail gently and slowly insert the thermometer into the rectum.
• Keep the thermometer in place until a steady temperature reading is recorded (most digital thermometers will automatically ‘bleep’ when temperature has been recorded).
• Remove the thermometer and read the temperature displayed in the small window.
• Turn off the thermometer and wipe clean before storage.
• Record the time and date that the temperature was recorded.

The vast majority of fevers in cats are caused by infections of some kind (usually an abscess caused by a bite from another cat). In most cases body temperature returns to normal spontaneously or with the help of antibiotics to control the infection. In some cases fever persists and despite simple tests no obvious cause of the raised temperature is found – in this case the condition is given the name ‘Fever of unknown origin’ or FUO.

There are many different diseases in which fever is the only problem your vet can find on examination. If your cat’s temperature remains high after a few days of treatment your vet may want to undertake further tests to try to identify the cause of the problem.

Investigation of an unexplained fever will usually require blood samples, x-rays and ultrasound, but there may be many more tests that need to be run. Some tests will have to be repeated a number of times in order to confirm or rule out particular diagnosis. Unfortunately investigation often continues for several weeks, may cost many hundreds of pounds and there is no guarantee that a specific diagnosis will be found. However once certain conditions have been eliminated from the checklist it may be possible to try medications to reduce the fever even if the diagnosis is not known.

Never give medications to your cat without veterinary advice because you may mask the signs of a more serious disease and make it harder for your vet to find out what is going on, and many commonly used human drugs (such as paracetamol) are extremely toxic to cats.

In some cats with unexplained fever the fever may resolve without treatment but may then recur months or years later, again with no apparent cause.

If it is your own cat that is injured then you should take it to your own vet if possible. However, if the incident occurs when you are away from home you will need to find the nearest veterinary practice. If there are no passers by or local residents to help, find a telephone box and call directory enquiries or ask at the closest police station, post office, village shop, etc.

Whether you are near home or away, always telephone the veterinary surgery first as many practices have branch surgeries which are not open all day every day. Alerting the practice staff means that they can give important advice and are ready to deal with your cat immediately upon arrival, which may greatly improve its chances of survival.

Any cat in pain is likely to be unpredictable and aggressive. If it can still walk it will probably try to run away and hide. A proper travelling box of plastic or fibreglass is the best way to carry the animal securely and prevent it escaping. If there is no box available a cardboard carrying box like those available from veterinary surgeries or animal welfare charities may be used instead.

However, an animal which has collapsed or has been involved in an accident (and so may have spinal injuries) should be moved as little as possible to avoid causing further damage. A sheet of wood, heavy card or even a blanket held taut can serve as a makeshift stretcher – the cat should be lifted gently on to the stretcher and put carefully into the back of the car.

If the vet clinic is within easy walking distance, or if there is no way of getting there by car, it may be possible to carry a cat with only minor injuries. However, it is very important to avoid getting injured yourself as a cat bite can be serious. Wrapping the cat in a blanket or coat will help to restrain it. The cat’s body should be held with one arm, supporting its weight with your forearm, while using the other hand to hold it firmly but gently beneath the chin. Some taxi firms will carry animals – but make sure you warn them when you book the taxi that you have a sick pet.

The aim of any first aid is to keep your cat alive and comfortable until it can receive proper veterinary treatment. The most important tasks are to ensure that your cat can breathe comfortably, to keep it warm and to control any bleeding.

If the animal is unconscious, check its mouth for any obstructions such as chunks of food and pull the tongue forward. A pencil slid across the back teeth can prevent you being bitten while your fingers are in its mouth. Wrapping the animal in a blanket will prevent it losing body heat, but if no suitable material is available newspapers, kitchen foil, etc may be used instead.

Serious bleeding is more likely to occur inside the cat’s body and will therefore be invisible. Paleness in the membranes around its mouth and eyes will show there is a problem. Bleeding from a skin wound should be minimised by applying a pressure pad with a bandage and cotton wool. A tourniquet may help stem the flow of blood from an injured limb or tail. However, unless someone has some training in first aid, the injury may be best left alone until the cat arrives at the veterinary surgery.

Any accident or injury which threatens the cat’s life will constitute an emergency but three possible problems are:

Road accidents

If you see a cat hit by a car and it is still lying in the road the immediate job is to prevent it from being run over again. Despite the risk of causing further damage, the cat should be moved to a safe place although avoid putting yourself at risk (remember that it may be difficult for drivers to see you at night). Approach the cat slowly and deliberately to avoid scaring it even more.

Not all road accidents are witnessed but if you see a cat which is limping, dishevelled, possibly with oil marks on its fur it may have been in such an accident. It may have suffered severe internal injuries and need urgent veterinary attention.

Poisoning

Sudden attacks of violent vomiting and/or diarrhoea, dribbling from the mouth, staggering and sudden collapse are all possible indications that a cat has been poisoned. If you believe that you know what the cat has eaten, it may help to take the packet, a sample from the plant, etc. with you to the vets.

If you do not know what caused the problem, scrape a sample of vomit or diarrhoea into a jar and take it for tests. Keep the animal warm and quiet until you can get it to a veterinary surgery.

Burns and scalds

The damage caused by fire or hot liquids can be reduced by soaking the wound in plenty of cold, clean water to cool the skin as quickly as possible. Do not attempt to treat the injury with ointments etc. Get the cat to a vet as quickly as possible since delays can increase the pain and the risks from shock and loss of bodily fluids.

To prevent unnecessary suffering in animals, it was made illegal many years ago for unqualified people to carry out veterinary treatment. Therefore, cat owners can only carry out first aid on their animals to save life or prevent further injury until the patient can be cared for by a vet. However, it is sensible for a caring cat owner to keep a first aid box at hand to deal with minor scratches etc or to save time in a genuine emergency. This could contain:

• a range of bandages and dressings of different sizes
• a blanket
• a length of soft cord
• scissors
• disposable gloves.

Unless instructed by your vet, it is not advisable to treat wounds with ointments or TCP as cats will often lick off anything applied to the skin and can make themselves ill swallowing distasteful substances.